A tale of drama and emotions.

Arturo Obegero entered the official Paris Fashion Week calendar for the Autumn Winter 2021 season, nine months following the launch of his eponymous label. He is presenting a collection acting as a personal message to the fashion world and a tribute to performers.

PURO TEATRO is the culmination of the designer’s emotional state, and the feelings he’s been willing to express. Bringing fantasy to overcome the grim reality of inequalities, political and economic uncertainty, and the pandemic is the essential message of the collection.

“The world has become the biggest stage, and everyone performs for attention and validation. I feel that we are in the most beautiful cage called life, a velvet prison.”

A new life is insufflated into old velvet curtains collected from theatres around the world, from Sydney to London. They have been the silent witnesses to amazing performances, to the rigour and dedication of stage artists. Now they will live lives of their own while also carrying the stories, cheers, and tears of the crowds forever embedded in their cotton fibres. This choice reaffirms Arturo Obegero’s sustainable mission by adding upcycling to the label’s values.

Arturo Obegero’s favourite flower, the red rose, is once more a key element of the collection. The designer is fascinated by the age-old tradition of throwing roses at performers at the end of a successful spectacle. This season, the performer becomes the rose as the blood red Saura bodysuit and the Cristóbal top merge. Together they symbolise the ambition that can sometimes blind us.

The Dulce balloon top references Obegero’s fashion hero, Cristóbal Balenciaga, as well as candy wrappers. The belt choking the neck aggravates the garment by adding perversity to the notion of sugar-coating.

The Prussian blue Marga scarf is exaggerated to resemble an elegant velvet snake wrapped around the wearer’s neck and upper body. The backless Volker top in blood red moiré is the exclamation point to the collection. The bows nod to classic haute couture gowns. Pushing forward a fashion cliché, they bring femininity while restraining the face and hands of the wearer.

The collection also features Arturo Obegero’s Signature items from the Palmira permanent collection, with new iterations of the Pedro shirt and Gades trousers in baby blue and blood red.

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La collezione Marni Uomo Autunno/Inverno 2020 presenta una serie di stampe colorate e caratterizzate da motivi geometrici.

Grafismi ipnotici: strisce, pois, cuori sono riprodotti su camicie oversize, pantaloni, t-shirt e borse shopping.

La collezione è disponibile ora su marni.com e nelle boutique Marni.

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The low slung, skinny and hiked high silhouettes mixed with the sexiness and attitude of Dsquared2 25 years ago are redefined for 2020 to give new spirit to the brand Dean and Dan Caten founded.

lconic pieces from the archive are redesigned by playing with proportions, super tight and shrunken or oversize, with a tactile washed look and feel in warm, earthy tones. Every look appears as if individually treated with a lived-in soul. The pieces Dsquared2 made its own remain pure to the brand’s roots, with added contemporary finish; a Montgomery coat is cropped high, a mini bustier dress in soft, pale baby blue mohair, and the underwear V-front jeans twisted and wrinkled on the legs over hidden 10cm high platform heeled men’s square-toe biker boots. Masculinity is blurred with femininity through the slightly exposed midriffs, cropped shirt sleeves, and jewelry that dangles with colored crystal rock pendants or leather feathers.

Cardigan coats, vests, in ribbed silk, fuzzy mohair and cashmere are layered one over the other in sensual styling, and the check shirt-a staple of the Dsquared2 wardrobe-in linen for winter has a worn-in finish. Thenatural shades of the line-up connect to nature outdoors, a piace where Dsquared2 designed its fashion to play in for a quarter of a century. Canadian country wilderness is seen in lumberjack checked coats and pants fringed on their sides. Mountain blanket red stripes are in bandeau style miniskirts and a poncho. Shearling coats are draped long around denim and Western boots. Hammered metal medallions and suede fringing embellish half-moon shaped bags with large buckles or metal ring handles.

Pumped up long parkas are worn over a men’s look that appears from anime, contrasting in cartoon-like sizes over clinging rubber high neck, long sleeve tops, wrinkled leather pants and mini cropped knitted vests. Women’s waist grazing raw cut jackets have collars decked with a flourish of eco fur, super low waist leather shorts. Oversized hanging military style pockets are built onto the classic Dsquared2 cotton canvas pant. Jeans, Dsquared2 DNA, are presented long, bleached on the thighs and wrinkled on the calf; or as a pair with two waists, one dropped to the hip, button fly open to reveal the front zip and button of another, looped in a leather belt with oversized gem stone buckle.

The collection reveals its heart in the phrase ‘love is•••‘, taken from a comic strip by cartoonist Kim Casali which was inspired by a series of love notes she drew for her future husband. A cherished motif from their childhood, Dean and Dan put the short statement in its curled lettering in jacquard knits, with a view that two simple words capture the sentiment the world needs right now.

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