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Collezioni Donna

Chanel SS 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection

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A youthful breeze of liberty blows across the rooftops of Paris. Or more precisely those installed in the nave of the Grand Palais for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show. Roofs so typical of the fashion capital and the rue Cambon with their zinc surfaces, walkways, chimney pots and windows opening onto the sky.

The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague. I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs. I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” says Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of the Fashion collections.

Today, the ethereal allure is dancing. Accessorised with sandals that come with jewelled or strass-embellished straps or are flat and two-tone, and occasionally little hats, the silhouette is fluid and light. The materials are supple and hinder no movements. For both day and night, the collection plays with the simplicity and balance of volume. Jackets with flounced collars and cuffs and short skirts reinterpret the tweed suit. Capri pants and denim jackets with ruffles also join the dance. Very pure little white coats finished with braid, are worn with voluminous skirts and tops in black and white tweed. The straight-cut masculine tweed jacket is revisited, transformed into playsuits, jumpsuits or a little dress with a flared skirt. Long coats come in tweed or wool crêpe while a striped top and a carelessly knotted shirt add masculine-feminine accents.

Satin, silk faille and taffetas carry the short, wraparound or asymmetric skirts, always worn high on the waist: petticoated, or not, with organza, they move with an unimpeded freedom. Their charm is enhanced with ruffled tops and delicate pleated blouses with balloon sleeves embellished with little bows or raffia and organza petals.
In their transparency, the fabrics reveal the breathtaking work of the ateliers required for the construction of the dresses and their handkerchief hems. Tiers of printed chiffon, organza, feathers and raffia fringes structure the delicate tops and long skirts. Embroidered around the collar with sequins in matte red like a lipstick, dresses in anthracite chiffon are printed with Parisian facades. Their flat pleats seem ready to float away with beautiful amplitude. A series of skirts, jackets and a long dress pass by in silk twill printed in the tonalities of dusk, with braids and trimmings in two-tone grosgrain.

Stripes, checks, vibrant block colours – red, orange, pink, blue – illuminate the collection and the emblematic black and white of the House. The prints are in unison: on one ultra-graphic version, the letters of CHANEL haphazardly stand out from the roofs.

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In a large version, the CHANEL 19 bag comes swathed in printed silk twill, while the 11.12 bag is back in tweed to match its suit. Zip-up bags in leather or tweed are reminiscent of schoolgirls’ pencil cases: the CHANEL signature appears handwritten in chain interlaced with

leather. The flap bag is refreshed with a wrist bracelet or a braid in two-tone grosgrain ribbon. Others have a more precious note: beads set with chains or sequinned embroideries with floral motifs. Gently, a ruffle is laid here on a strap or there on the flap of a half-moon clutch. Ever present, couture jewellery is worn in accumulation: pearl sautoirs and brooches, necklaces in coloured crystal or punctuated with strass-covered balls and cuff bracelets signed CHANEL PARIS.

Feminine, urban, in motion, never the same and yet always identifiable, the silhouette of CHANEL’s Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection has the nonchalant grace of a cinematographic heroine. Inspiring, contemporary, eternal.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show created by Virginie Viard was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, Soo Joo Park, Nana Komatsu and Jennie Kim, as well as singers Sting, Cardi B, Angèle, Ace Tee and Yuna, the musician Orelsan, the actresses Isabelle Adjani and Xin Zhi Lei and finally the choreographer and dancer Blanca Li.

#CHANELSpringSummer

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Collezioni Donna

WEEKENDERS KNITS – La maglieria con le farfalle di Weekend Max Mara.

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Weekend Max Mara si prepara ad accogliere la nuova stagione con un drop speciale: una maglia girocollo in puro cashmere decorata con la farfalla, simbolo distintivo del brand. Un anticipo della collezione Primavera Estate 2022 perfetta anche come regalo o da indossare in ogni occasione.

La farfalla è stata interpretata da Donald Robertson, celebre illustratore e pop-artist americano, già noto al mondo di Weekend Max Mara per aver collaborato alla realizzazione della Signature Collection per la Primavera Estate 2021.

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Uno stile, quattro colori – baby blue, turchese, giallo sole e rosa chiaro. Ogni tonalità offre una diversa declinazione della farfalla, finemente intessuta nella maglia con un effetto delicato e disinvolto.

In linea con lo spirito di Weekend Max Mara, i capi sono stati immaginati per il tempo libero, e il termine weekender è ricamato in corsivo attorno alle farfalle.

Il drop di collezione comprende inoltre felpe e t-shirt colorate che ne confermano il mood: arricchendo il guardaroba con un tocco di freschezza, sono un alleato perfetto per affrontare ogni occasione, formale o disinvolta.

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Collezioni Donna

Dsquared2 WORLDWIDE WANDERER WOMEN’S PRE-FALL 2022

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Headed for the road, Dsquared2’s worldwide wanderer is destined for the places she’s already travelled in her mind. The Pre-Fall 22 collection is the wardrobe for the journey, mixed with the pieces she found on the way. Her suitcase is a dress-up box, and her looks are inspired by the possibilities of the places she will discover. One day she’s outdoors under the falling leaves of nature she’s never seen, another meeting new friends on a rooftop towering amongst a foreign city’s skyscrapers.

The collection plays on layering colour, pattern and Dsquared2’s key style essentials. Denim is loose, washed and worn-in, faded and embellished with souvenir patches. Outerwear becomes a trusted travel buddy—the memories of her trip will star the statement coat thrown over every look. Shearlings are oversized with a 70s attitude. Long coats are in patterns, plaids, or florals, while a leather jacket is constructed with puffer sleeves. For unexpected nights in new towns, there’s a black velour bomber glistening with silver glitter, and jackets in bright pink, and raspberry velvet.

Dresses come short and floaty; or languid and body-skimming. Stripes colour soft, long dresses and are also found on poncho style boxy shirts. An ankle-length sweatshirt dress is paired with socks and furry slides. Americana folk prints and tapestry florals are on dresses worn with jersey leggings and hiking boots. An explosive volcano illustration appears on a variety of styles like a long skirt, dresses and appliquéd onto a leather coat and hoodie shirt hybrid. Abstract berries are printed on a short-sleeve shirt dress, worn on top of cargo shorts and leggings and hiking boots. Awash in a pattern of all-over coloured sequins, a long tunic dress and skirts have an irreverent glam vibe.

Bohemian style knits include thick and narrow braided scarves, cropped tanks, long cardigans, and hand-knitted effect sweaters styled over a frilled minidress and platform boots; or with cropped yellow sweatpants, a speckled coat and crystal covered ankle strap sandals worn over mouliné socks.

The season’s pant is slouchy, low slung and loose, in Dsquared2 cotton canvas, or velvet cord, faded blue denim or tiger print. These are worn with Western belts, T-shirts and double-breasted jackets, denim jackets or bustier dresses, or styled more laid back with flowy printed tunic shirts and leather jackets.

All the accessories add an extra layer of a freewheeling style to the journey. Polished leather hiking boots, nylon duffles, and embroidered patch covered backpacks are designed for when it’s time to change course. For hanging out in a new favourite place, there’s oversized shoppers and mini cross body bags, woollen beanies, and coloured stone rings created to be stacked on the same finger and double buckled slides that slip easily over thick socks.

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Collezioni Donna

La Métamorphose – Collection ready to wear spring summer 2022 – Les dames de la côte

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A 100% eco-responsible collection: 100% natural cotton made in France, right down to the backpack closure cord made from a bio-degradable fiber.

Ewa and Margaret, the brand’s two founding sisters, promise us a chic and comfortable summer 2022. Impeccably cut pantsuits, available in jackets and shorts, feel good dresses, skirts tied at the waist, not to mention all the embroidery details on T-shirts or jackets, with a resolutely positive slogan: “Hello Love “.

A collection that takes us back to the era of Brigitte Bardot, innocently sexy, in soft colors like a seaside breeze. Note the irresistible accessories: hats and bags. A collection respectful of the planet that puts us in a good mood.

Photo Credits: Greg Alexander © Méphistophélès

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