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Theunissen FW23 show

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The Parisian brand Theunissen has presented his FW23 collection.

Founded in 2019, The Franco-Belgian brand created by Ariane Theunissen, presented the FW23 collection for its very first show in Mellerio’s prestigious store, the oldest high jewellery house in the world.

This season, THEUNISSEN is offering to us a collection inspired by the empowerement of women mixing with her true love for the 70’s and its icons which is the DNA of the brand. The silhouette of the models are highlights by the structure of the shoulders path and small waist to create strong and dramatic looks, encouraging the idea of the powerful woman.

Mixing the fabrics, the designer works this season with transparent mesh and wool to create a marked contrast all around the show, allowing the body to reveal itself.

To accessorize the collection, the designer collaborated with the leatherworker Nadia Chellaoui to create three oversize bags along with the brand Zila Russi for the shoes. Partner of the event, the jeweller Mellerio has lent 4 prestigious high jewellery necklaces to sublimate some looks (1, 3, 11, 19).

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MASU 2025 Spring Summer – grayish tale

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Like Ivy creeping over a wall over the years, as time passes, something that grows familiar without us even realising it. Something we can say that is taken for granted. Sometimes, these signify comfort and satisfaction while embodying the ordinary, resonating with the changes of eras and generations. Occasionally, rigid concepts or styles, though rarely, may cause unexpected friction in people’s hearts. For Shinpei Goto, who regards history as a legacy filled with enchanting codes, one of the elements is the “trad” and “Ivy” styles.

M A S U, while embracing the spirit of the times, has continued to explore a radical path alongside MASU BOYS without distorting history, infusing their designs with novel ideas. M A S U’s extraordinary design approach always begins with questioning rigid thoughts, encouraging “people to let go of what they unconsciously cling to”, and integrating contradictions and combinations repeatedly.

The imagination that questions the existing can weave different stories. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection unveiled on Haussmann Boulevard in Paris is filled with straightforward reinterpretations that directly confront traditional and Ivy styles. With his usual light touch, the designer turned his gaze to the ‘style’ like mature ivy and the items and outfits that symbolise them. He unraveled navy blazers, marine stripes, and argyle patterns, not only slicing through clichés but also technically transforming forms with smocking and deforming classics with accordion pleats, liberating concepts effortlessly. This playful collection, shedding the abstraction of style, can be seen as a meeting of familiarity and artistic dressing. Shinpei truly envisions the beginning of another tale.

Collaborations, for M A S U, represent a contemporary approach that unleashes his vision into a broader territory. Since the 1950s, incorporating American culture and permeating Japan with American traditional style, the VAN JAC by Kensuke Ishizu, who led Japanese fashion trends, we paid homage to Ishizu by creating a sweatshirt printed with his portrait in the style of a Beethoven sweatshirt (Great Man Sweatshirt), not only with a paper bag-style clutch but also revolutionizing Japanese fashion and paving the way for the future. Following the 24FW collection, VERDY depicts MASU BOYS CLUB lettering and emblem, along with ivy graphics wrapping around the arm, while memorial pants are adorned with words related to VERDY and designer John, a friend who connected them.

“While the conventional pattern exists and mavericks of the era, who face criticism, emerge, it sparks enthusiasm. Then it eventually becomes mainstream and classic. Japanese fashion has been cultivated in this manner, but I don’t want to passively accept this environment. Without any hesitation, in a Japan that is becoming increasingly classic, I want to continue to speak through the power of MASU BOYS, connecting the grayish attitude to the future of fashion”. As long as MASU BOYS exist, it’s too early to conclude the Ivy story with ‘Happily ever after’.

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KIDILL – SS25 Show

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The special encounter and years of exchange between Hiroaki Sueyasu with Ho99o9 duo consisting of theOGM(BlueFace) and Yeti Bones(Eaddy) provided inspirations for the 2025 S/S collection was latent.

Fascinating influences from adoration and sublimating to new creations. The constant aesthetic that Sueyasu expresses through
KIDILL became more apparent through a relationship that began almost two years ago. Ho99o9, who embodies a desire for progress and an inimitable sense of beauty through their frenetic appearance, music, performance, and costumes, perfectly encapsulated the style of KIDILL. Sueyasu says, “I was impressed by the essence and attitude that runs through all their styles, and this spontaneous empathy brought unprecedented imagination to KIDILL.”

The iconic wedding dress that eclipse the body, remarkably unique DIY live costumes gives a direct notion of “their usual style” . The imagination bound from the cluster of these facts is not only seen from the graphics and the embroideries of Ho99o9, but in the myriad of the zippers and the padlock fastening front detail, sleeveless denim vests and the symbolical use of the laces heavily infuses the evolution of the customizing spirit.

Interestingly, Sueyasu feels “a Tokyo-ness” from the presence and the frame of mind of Ho99o9. Somewhat a sensory subjectivity that the designer has experienced over the course uniformly linked to the essence of the street style of Harajuku, especially the Lolita style. Hence, it coexists in the collection as an inevitable exhalation appearing through Kae Tanaka’s graphics, dresses and decors, the “philosophy of the consistency in the unity of choosing and wearing clothes” . In addition, Sueyasu uninhibitedly expanded his designs with items deconstructed from vintage metal band T-shirts, a bandolier bag that holds tattered and eroded textures and bullets, sleeveless tailored jackets, and vintage trousers created by the tailors.

The deep-seated fact found through the multiple collaborations of KIDILL is still showing the power to usher in the punk of the
future. Track jackets, pants, and game shirts in collaboration with UMBRO, ironic one-of-a-kind masks and hats with HIZUME
are just a few examples. “PROTECT MY BASIC” is a straightforward and powerful affirmation that points to the core of the matter.

The code “999” masked in Ho99o9 is a premonition to the next stage of evolution and of an as-yet-unseen setting. This angel number is an inversion of the devil’s number 666, and the boundless context of 1000-1 is loaded with infinite possibilities of q progressing mysticism, representing the current state of mind of Sueyasu.

Show Director: Michio Hoshina *PLANKTON / Stylist : Tatsuya Shimada / Hair Stylist : Kunio Kohzaki /
Make-up: Kanako Yoshida *lga management / Casting : Taka Arakawa, Jose Maria *ALTER / Production: Devi Sok /
Runway Photo: Ko Tsuchiya / Backstage Photo : Ko Tsuchiya, Flo Kohl / Show Coordinator: Azusa Nozaki /
Writer : Tatsuya Yamaguchi / Artwork: HO99O9, KAE TANAKA, ohiana /
Collaboration : HO99O9, UMBRO, HIZUME, RICHMOND KNITWEAR, KIRIN TAILORS, ACUPUNCTURE, Deadly Sweet,
YUUKI IWAMA, NC, rurumu: / International Press : Totem fashion / Japan Press : Sakas PR / Support : Dr. Martens /
Movie Director: Minori Murata / Movie Music: HO99O9

KIDILL Designer: Hiroaki Sueyasu

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DSQUARED2 SS 2025 Coed Collection

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For Spring/Summer 2025, twin creative masterminds Dean and Dan Caten turn up the heat while bringing a renewed sense of focus to their vision of maximal multiplicity for Dsquared2. The brand hones in on a sense of duality – between elegance and edge, softness and strength – but in doing so, creates one of their most unexpected, exciting, and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet. It is a liberated community of artists, athletes, and aesthetes, an underground milieu that is poetry salon, wrestling league, and kink scene all in one.

As always, the collection’s spirit of freeing multiplicity has its basis in Dean and Dan’s signature penchant for synthesizing innovative material treatments and imaginative details with cross-genre references to fringe fashion subcultures. For Spring/Summer 2025, this practice takes shape as a particularly focused intersection of elegance and edge. Sheer chiffons cascade poetically around the body, but reveal skin-tight bondage harnesses or barely-there bralettes beneath. Denim peels away into sculptural latex. Asymmetrical sheer jersey tanks are treated with laminating techniques, balancing brutalist geometry and soft bodily harmony. Laces coil up legs, holding outer garments together but exposing the skin beneath. Broad-shouldered suits with voluminous pleated pants reference 80s workday ensembles, while leather biker jackets and thick-soled studded creepers suggest that same stylish character’s nocturnal alter ego.

The color palette, too, embodies a spirit of poetic softness anchored by the strength of desire: blush, dust, and powder-blue tones take on further depth and delicacy in translucent fabrics like chiffon and latex, but reworked bondage gear in black leather keeps things tied down. All the while, occasional pops of vibrancy or metallic shimmer punctuate the show’s transitional moments.

As the collection progresses, the subtle sense of restrained athleticism develops into full-blown references to the glamorous, campy, and unintentionally (or is it?) erotic visual language of professional wrestling, playfully celebrating both its bravado and its predilection for skin-on-skin contact. Singlets hug the body in all the right ways as they peek out of sheer shorts, while the lace-up details of luchador regalia are pushed to S&M extremes.

This aspect of bodacious theatricality extends to the runway show’s staging at Milan’s historic Teatro Lirico Giorgio Gaber. As the iconic red velvet curtains raise, latex-clad figures dance in hanging cages to kick off the cabaret. Models emerge, transforming the theater’s stage and aisle into one runway. Fittingly, the heart-pumping soundtrack channels the sensual freak-funk ofLovesexy-era Prince, splicing together glam rock, soul, and sexy R&B to driving club beats.

Amplified by this sonic and visual backdrop, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection from Dsquared2 brings the heat as a soulful and unabashedly sexy celebration of the freedom to embrace multiplicity.

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