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MASU 2025 Spring Summer – grayish tale

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Like Ivy creeping over a wall over the years, as time passes, something that grows familiar without us even realising it. Something we can say that is taken for granted. Sometimes, these signify comfort and satisfaction while embodying the ordinary, resonating with the changes of eras and generations. Occasionally, rigid concepts or styles, though rarely, may cause unexpected friction in people’s hearts. For Shinpei Goto, who regards history as a legacy filled with enchanting codes, one of the elements is the “trad” and “Ivy” styles.

M A S U, while embracing the spirit of the times, has continued to explore a radical path alongside MASU BOYS without distorting history, infusing their designs with novel ideas. M A S U’s extraordinary design approach always begins with questioning rigid thoughts, encouraging “people to let go of what they unconsciously cling to”, and integrating contradictions and combinations repeatedly.

The imagination that questions the existing can weave different stories. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection unveiled on Haussmann Boulevard in Paris is filled with straightforward reinterpretations that directly confront traditional and Ivy styles. With his usual light touch, the designer turned his gaze to the ‘style’ like mature ivy and the items and outfits that symbolise them. He unraveled navy blazers, marine stripes, and argyle patterns, not only slicing through clichés but also technically transforming forms with smocking and deforming classics with accordion pleats, liberating concepts effortlessly. This playful collection, shedding the abstraction of style, can be seen as a meeting of familiarity and artistic dressing. Shinpei truly envisions the beginning of another tale.

Collaborations, for M A S U, represent a contemporary approach that unleashes his vision into a broader territory. Since the 1950s, incorporating American culture and permeating Japan with American traditional style, the VAN JAC by Kensuke Ishizu, who led Japanese fashion trends, we paid homage to Ishizu by creating a sweatshirt printed with his portrait in the style of a Beethoven sweatshirt (Great Man Sweatshirt), not only with a paper bag-style clutch but also revolutionizing Japanese fashion and paving the way for the future. Following the 24FW collection, VERDY depicts MASU BOYS CLUB lettering and emblem, along with ivy graphics wrapping around the arm, while memorial pants are adorned with words related to VERDY and designer John, a friend who connected them.

“While the conventional pattern exists and mavericks of the era, who face criticism, emerge, it sparks enthusiasm. Then it eventually becomes mainstream and classic. Japanese fashion has been cultivated in this manner, but I don’t want to passively accept this environment. Without any hesitation, in a Japan that is becoming increasingly classic, I want to continue to speak through the power of MASU BOYS, connecting the grayish attitude to the future of fashion”. As long as MASU BOYS exist, it’s too early to conclude the Ivy story with ‘Happily ever after’.

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Homolog Couture FW 24-25

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On Thursday, June 27th, 2024, Homolog held its Fall/Winter 2024-2025 couture show at the Tennis de la Cavalerie, adjacent to the Paris Tower.In this new collection, Creative Director Emily Cheong and her team of designers continue the essence of Homolog’s haute couture workshop, which is a creative process that brings together thousands of ideas to produce extremely comfortable, beautiful and stunning garments.The style is conservative and mysterious, highlighting the beauty of nobility and elegance.

The new season pays special tribute to “feng shui and astrology”, with elements from the world’s best countries, interpreted with top quality craftsmanship, presenting classic works that can be passed down to the next generation.

The tennis ball art installation in the show was designed and produced by IMG Focus, symbolizing the nine stars of the Big Dipper, representing the theme of Feng Shui. In Malaysian, Singaporean, Chinese, Thai and Indonesian mythology, the Big Dipper is the celestial body in charge of human destiny.The Big Dipper is responsible for the movement of the heaven and earth, the four seasons, the distribution of the five elements, as well as the fate of the world, all of which are determined by the Big Dipper.The names of the nine stars are Greedy Wolf, Giant Gate, Luk Cun, Wen Qu, Lian Zhen, Wu Qu, Broken Army, Left Aid and Right Aid.

Homolog’s design for this collection exquisitely presents the elements represented by each star through different patterns and craftsmanship.For example, the star Wenqu, representing the color green, the number 4, and the direction north-west, is regarded by legend as an asterism in charge of wisdom and thought.Good at writing, literary and favoring romance, these elements are paid tribute to in the design with a unique artistic aesthetic, and each silhouette element demonstrates the studio’s superior skills.In this new collection, the brand’s most iconic custom embroidered regular dresses are maintained, while the dress poncho incorporates architecture in the silhouette design, adding a new dimension to each piece not only for comfort, but also to better showcase the divine vibe.

Throughout the collection, a very special tribute to women’s classic looks is included, where the brand pays special tribute to some of the representatives of women who have benefited society, including Sister Theresa, Queen Elizabeth II, Waris Diiriye, the Desert Flower, Mozah Bint Nasser Al-Missned, Princess of Qatar, Empress Wu Zetian of China, and Hypatia, the Ancient Egyptian Mathematician and Astronomer.The Astronomer Hypatia.

The show’s music gives people the feeling of healing the soul, originating from the Chinese sound law “five tones enter the five viscera”, Chinese medicine “Nei Jing” will be horn, zheng, Gong, Shang, Yu belong to wood, fire, earth, gold, water, so the five tones and the five viscera, there is “five viscera phonological” theory, that is, the sound of Gong into theThe theory of the “five visceral sounds” is that the Gong sound goes to the spleen, the Shang sound goes to the lungs, the Horn sound goes to the liver, the Zheng sound goes to the heart and the Feather sound goes to the kidney.

Special mention should be made of the show’s arched roof made of 1,400 pieces of wood, designed by the famous French architect R. Farradèche in 1924, the monumental building is classified as a national monument, coinciding with the 100th anniversary of the Paris Olympics, the show also coincides with the 100th birthday of the club, which only invites a very small number of members.As with the Homolog brand, the positioning is high-end, with the intention of providing unlimited services to a limited group.Including advanced customized modification of precious old clothes, so that after many years can still wear her original beauty, advocating people to seriously live seriously love, so that time becomes a good friend, so that the wisdom and classic continuation.

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Peet Dullaert Haute Couture FW24-25

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Manifesto :
What is beauty. The question that is the bane of our industry’s existence. I believe it cannot be addressed with only the presentation of the end product on the runway. From the cuts that mold on the body, to embrace it, not claim; my inspiration with the Atelier is rooted in celebration of us people.

The creations, crafted by artisanal fabric manipulation, resulting in unique surfaces reinterpret suiting adapted to modern posture trough construction adapted to modern life[1],and flou-tailoring [2]. The exploration of organic shapes and the human anatomy through re-invented techno-pleat designs [3] is what the collection speaks to.

The myriad of human silhouettes. Each of them, entirely shaped and sewn by hand. “Cousu main” : a needle, a thread, creation without the use of a machine. Such creation is greatly personal at the base of it all, and inspired by the lives of the diverse group of individuals around me, the generations that inspire and teach me. And so, our inspiration at the Atelier is rooted in this celebration of people, and the myriad of their human silhouettes, that has been a guiding architect.

Reflection on life in this digital age. Silhouettes emerging from a storm, to honour resilience and movement of the body. You are meant to live in our clothes, to be : free. – Peet Dullaert

Glossary

  1. PEET DULLAERTSignature Suiting – Cut for modern posture. Our cuts allow you to type on your phone, bend your arms at angles needed to live today’s lifestyle, whilst maintaining a fluid sartorial look. This is achieved through the house’s signature turned cut that allows for dynamic movement of the body, achieved through a bias-cut direction on the back and the arms. As opposed to traditional linear position of seams, that does not allow the wearer to live an active life, our signature cut allows for free movement of the arms complimented by design aesthetic that makes our seams flow with the body’s movement.
  2. Flou-tailoring – A technique where the fabric is shaped directly on a live body, without the process of creation on a mannequin. The genesis of every design created in this collection is through live draping on the body.
  3. PEET DULLAERT Techno pleating – A unique innovation of the house in treating fabric, techno pleating is manipulation of the house trademark pleated-fabric to create shapes. Shapes that are either manipulated by hand or machine, by only one artisan that creates each piece. The way the fabric is pleated and structured, it allows for the wearer to move in the clothes; without feeling constrained by the hems of the clothing. Even though each piece is couture made, the buyer can be assured that they will comfortably be able to fit into the clothes through the journey of their life. The techno pleating material further allows the wearer to travel without worrying about creases. One can bunch up the clothes, such that it is compact and can be fit into a travel suitcase, unfolded and draped on the body. For a carefree wearer that is active and does not want to be worried about ironing, luggage space, but priorities aesthetics and cuts.
  4. Care for earth – For every purchase made directly via PEET DULLAERTand through our retailers we support four causes : 1% of our revenue goes towards carbon removal as a Stripe Climate Member.
    We fund the The Ocean Cleanup, while simultaneously raising awareness to protect and preserve the oceans and decaying coral reefs through our inspired collections.
    Via ‘One Tree Planted’ we donate trees to be planted in the Amazon rainforest, and donate to the ‘Trees for the Future’ organisation; to help improve the livelihoods of impoverished families by aiding to revitalise degraded lands through Forest Gardens, to aid efforts to reverse deforestation.
  5. Responsible in-house production cycle – On a made to order basis, for ready to wear and couture, translating to our goal of conscious production. As the house only uses materials to fulfil specific orders leading to minimal scope for waste. Our shipment process is end to end carbon neutral with fully recyclable packaging.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS :
Artistic Director : Peet Dullaert
Atelier : PEET DULLAERT Paris
Make Up : Hannah Rosie Bennett for MAC Cosmetics
Hair : Ilham Mestour – The Wall Group
Manicure : Maho Ishikawa
Runway Photography :
Omri Rosengart
Backstage Photography :
Ketevan Tkhelidze
Videography ;
Nick Naida
Production : Manon Merlet

SPECIAL MENTION :
Baroness Hélène de Ludinghausen , Pierre Bergé †
Mouna Ayoub , Valérie Wertheimer
Pascal Morand , Riccardo Bellini , Florence Tétier
Emily Borich
Frederieke Broekgaarden, Thomas Petit Joseph, Gia Bab, Roni Levav, Diane Douvalle, Ronie Levav, Claire Werlan Katariina Lamberg, Anna Ahonen : Ahonen & Lamberg

THE LEDE COMPANY
Christine Su, Olivier Bourgis, Carlos Freixeda

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ZUHAIR MURAD Couture Fall-Winter 2024/2025 – Lumineuses Cicatrices

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Three, two, one: she stands tall; and those who thought her wounded, broken, fragile, those who deemed her lost, witness her incredible metamorphosis. She had no choice in weapons. She had no weapons. She only has her gaze, steady, burning. She moves forward, sensual, determined. It’s like a dance. She sways, undulates, light as air, enchanting, dangerous. She has lived a thousand lives. She reigns, sovereign, provider of light, freedom, and love. Nothing stops her.
Her imprint is eternal.

This winter, Zuhair Murad’s woman embodies the power of nature: like the forests that burn and rise from their ashes, like wounded lionesses bearing their scars and roaming the savannahs. Her beauty lies in her power to always emerge stronger, mistress of her destiny. Nothing and no one can obstruct her path to happiness, her quest for serenity despite assaults, disappointments, and low blows. She returns from afar and journeys even further towards summits inaccessible to mere mortals.

This resilience is expressed through creations where traces of past pains are transfigured, elevated into embroideries. Sutures rendered in sparkling crystals bring together the edges of a slit gown, scars or splits that invite light in. A reimagined animal print elevates sensuality, a sensual camouflage rewriting the instinct for survival in feminine form directly on the skin. 3D smoke spirals from bottom to top on a gown with heightened shoulders, emanating from a meditative cigarette or a barely tamed fire. Here and there, Zuhair Murad designs bullet impacts, shattered mirrors, oversized fingerprints whose grooves engrave the indelible signature of a feminine ideal figure that engages, organizes, achieves, and acts against oblivion. Crystals intertwine with nervous, knotted nets as if to exorcise tension. But everywhere, too, pearls mimic champagne bubbles, sparkling around irregular, whimsical, joyous tears.

The palette, ranging from flesh tones, from incarnadine to red, or feline hues of brownish-orange dresses, also prominently features blacks, gunmetal grays, steel grays used for armor. Leather plays a significant role in the choice of materials. The finest textures, silk dupion, chiffon, satin, crêpe cady, embroidered tulle, velvet, and jersey sublimate the theme by enhancing pigments and reflections.

Through a vibrant, deeply inspired collection of elegant sensuality, Zuhair Murad pays tribute to all women who have long fought until they became powerful versions of themselves, revealing through their past pains only their invincible beauty.

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