The starting point of the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection is Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. It is the place where Virginie Viard took Xavier Veilhan at the very beginning of their work, and which includes a collection of objects, sculptures, drawings representing lions, does, stags, birds and camels. “For his third participation, I asked him to reinterpret the apartment’s bestiary and incorporate his own,” she says. “The whole embroidery universe of the collection is turned towards the animal world.”

Embroidered on short tweed suits and coat dresses, kittens, corgis, rabbits and swallows share the limelight with the does, stags or camellias emblematic of the House.
As if on a village square, a festive parade is being prepared and sets off. Eleven monumental animals made of wood, cardboard and paper created by Xavier Veilhan hide models, and then open to let them escape. “I like it when the marvellous bursts forth and the course of events is interrupted,” she continues.

The CHANEL suit borrows its codes from the female uniforms of parades and spectacles. Top hat, bow tie, white gloves, laced boots, satin cape, pleated skirt, jackets double-breasted or with tails, tuxedo shirt, sequins, short shorts, petticoats: it is in the poetry of majorettes that Virginie Viard also finds her inspiration.

Dresses and jumpsuits all in lightness and refinement, superpositions, transparencies, flounces, pleats, fine straps and repainted laces, are crafted in silk tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crepe and chantilly lace.

And as in every beautiful story, the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection, with its fairy parade, closes with the bride in a dress embroidered with swallows.§

Photo Credits: Copyright CHANEL

#CHANELHauteCouture

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Estasi architettonica. Segreti di luce. Vibrazioni materiche. Giochi di ombre. Una femminilità che è come un flash negli occhi, colpisce nel rendere tutto più nitido, toglie gli orpelli per svelare l’essenza di una sensualità couture. Con un battito artistico che scorre sottopelle. Sempre.

Minimal rich. Rigorosamente made in Italy. Con tessuti e lavorazioni couture. Dal fit rinnovato sempre più pensato per essere bodycentrico partendo proprio dalla stagione spring summer 2023. Phaeonia plasma la camicia, diventa una tela bianca di un pittore su cui iniziare innesti artigianali per siglare la nascita di una nuova specie. Una magnifica ossessione per creare una collisione di passioni. Strutturato come il sogno di un architetto, morbido come un velo soffiato dal vento. Maschile e femminile. Cotoni preziosi dalla grammatura alleggerita e reti con applicazioni di paillette. Sete impalpabili e fiocchi da indossare in più modi, un vero inno alla libertà.

Drappeggi per dare un’idea di quella tridimensionalità propria dell’arte, emettendo vibrazioni tra chiaro e scuro. Forme e luce creano movimenti ispirati ad una dimensione scultorea. Ricami esclusivi sulle balze nere, trasparenze ricercate per far aumentare mistero e passione. Un pattern geometrico con un tessuto stampa optical muta sapientemente mentre si muove lungo il corpo, creando una suggestione cinetica, come un’onda estetica. Inizia un brivido di seduzione con gli oblò aperti dalle coulisse, con quell’alternanza armoniosa tra pieni e vuoti come un’architettura da studiare. Creano più livelli sulla superficie, permettono di indossare la camicia in più versioni senza seguire regole. E la personalità di chi indossa diventa l’ingrediente magico.

Una speciale capsule è pronta a vestire la sera. Con il know how prezioso che arriva dall’alta moda. Delicate paillette, reti con un touch impalpabile. Bianco. Nero. Rigorosamente no size, nessuna taglia predefinita. Per cedere a una tentazione visiva.

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During her second fashion show within the official Parisian calendar, the designer will be presenting her “Orígenes” collection, an ode to her Spanish and flamenco roots.

After her debut in July 2022 with the “Andalucía” collection, Juana Martín returns this January 26th to the official calendar of the Paris Haute Couture Week with “Orígenes”, a proposal that reflects the beginnings of her work in fabrics and prints, and offers a result true to her flamenco style, with a more avant-garde touch.

Inspired by her summers in Málaga, a place that has seen many of her creative processes, Juana Martín returns to this city to create “Orígenes”. The blue of its beaches, its people and the harmony of its land are embodied in this collection that, according to the designer’s words, “is designed for an elegant and transgressive woman, who dares to take another step towards evolution and personal development”.

This collection shows the essence of Juana Martín’s designs, both in the color palette based on black and white tones, as well as in the use of volumes, embroideries, ruffles and of course, polka dots. The fabric innovation and the abundant presence of crystals stand out in this collection, embroidered crystals and netted crystals, create meshes that cover the body of the sensual, daring and provocative woman.

Also, in the “Orígenes” fashion show we will be seeing accessories such as the Christian Louboutin shoes, Nadia Chellaoui bags and Plata Pura goldsmith work. A mixture of high-end firms have come together with a contemporary and an avant-garde point of view.

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