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Collezioni Donna

MM6 Maison Margiela Collection ‘Avant-Premiere’ Autumn – Winter 2022

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For the AW22 ‘Avant-Première’ collection, MM6 Maison Margiela explores its utility-driven design codes through a subversive study of military wear. Rather than simply mine the vocabulary of the genre, the house collective defamiliarises and reframes motifs, textures and silhouettes typically associated with dressing for a battle, resulting in garments that are imbued with a resolutely pacifist feel.

A boxy-framed watchcoat in heather grey wool is dramatically cropped, counteracting the garment’s officious connotations, and gilt-buttoned patch pockets lifted from 19th century uniforms are transposed onto a chocolate suede miniskirt and écru cotton drill trousers.

Fabrics associated with military garments are fashioned into pieces that read of anything but. The lightweight rib knit used for army-issue underpinnings becomes frilled crew and polo neck tops and a fitted dress, and the bulbous shell of the Cocoon coat is reimagined in sturdy quilted khaki nylon and lined in fluorescent orange — a fabric combination also used for three new iterations of MM6’s signature Japanese bag, as well as a pair of pencil case-shaped ballerina.

A similar spirit of subversion informs a variety of aesthetic details that enhance the garment’s function.
On a zippered jersey hoodie and a turquoise version of the camionneur cardigan, the expected two armholes are replaced by a single circular cutout on the reverse side, resulting in backless gilets that embrace the body. Elsewhere, a grey camionneur and a wool coat allow for multiple modes of wearing through cut-outs at the underarm, while alpaca-blend knits are decorated with seemingly moth-eaten holes that give access to the pockets of garments worn beneath and allow for the oversized sleeves to be worn as gloves.

Design choices are often made to enhance the wearer’s comfort. The featherlight foiled cotton poplin of a belted raincoat mimics the timbre of vintage leather, and teddy-lined suede echoes shearling; offcentre rasterised trompe-l’oeil images of iconic MM6 garments are printed on bleached denim trousers and mesh dresses.

The cerebral tone is counterposed by pieces that tell of a playfulness, bordering on camp: a dog tag necklace and a reimagining of the anatomic-toe boot as an army-issue wool sock. They’re complemented by three leather accessories: a shoulder bag engineered with the contours of the body in mind and inspired by the form of water flasks; a compact toolbox shaped crossbody bag; and a further crossbody option that references a mapholder bag.

For all its wit and irreverent decontextualisation, this is a wardrobe to be worn here and now, as the familiar setting of the collection’s lookbook proves. Shot against the bar taps and dark wood interiors of a charmingly unpretentious Parisian hangout just a stone’s throw from the house’s headquarters, the clothes are seen as they should be worn — as part of the fabric of everyday life.

LOOK

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BAGS

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JEWERLY

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ACCESSORIES

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Collezioni Donna

Phaeonia Spring-Summer 2023 “Art-Chitecture”

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Estasi architettonica. Segreti di luce. Vibrazioni materiche. Giochi di ombre. Una femminilità che è come un flash negli occhi, colpisce nel rendere tutto più nitido, toglie gli orpelli per svelare l’essenza di una sensualità couture. Con un battito artistico che scorre sottopelle. Sempre.

Minimal rich. Rigorosamente made in Italy. Con tessuti e lavorazioni couture. Dal fit rinnovato sempre più pensato per essere bodycentrico partendo proprio dalla stagione spring summer 2023. Phaeonia plasma la camicia, diventa una tela bianca di un pittore su cui iniziare innesti artigianali per siglare la nascita di una nuova specie. Una magnifica ossessione per creare una collisione di passioni. Strutturato come il sogno di un architetto, morbido come un velo soffiato dal vento. Maschile e femminile. Cotoni preziosi dalla grammatura alleggerita e reti con applicazioni di paillette. Sete impalpabili e fiocchi da indossare in più modi, un vero inno alla libertà.

Drappeggi per dare un’idea di quella tridimensionalità propria dell’arte, emettendo vibrazioni tra chiaro e scuro. Forme e luce creano movimenti ispirati ad una dimensione scultorea. Ricami esclusivi sulle balze nere, trasparenze ricercate per far aumentare mistero e passione. Un pattern geometrico con un tessuto stampa optical muta sapientemente mentre si muove lungo il corpo, creando una suggestione cinetica, come un’onda estetica. Inizia un brivido di seduzione con gli oblò aperti dalle coulisse, con quell’alternanza armoniosa tra pieni e vuoti come un’architettura da studiare. Creano più livelli sulla superficie, permettono di indossare la camicia in più versioni senza seguire regole. E la personalità di chi indossa diventa l’ingrediente magico.

Una speciale capsule è pronta a vestire la sera. Con il know how prezioso che arriva dall’alta moda. Delicate paillette, reti con un touch impalpabile. Bianco. Nero. Rigorosamente no size, nessuna taglia predefinita. Per cedere a una tentazione visiva.

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Collezioni Donna

Juana Martín returns to the Paris Haute Couture Week

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During her second fashion show within the official Parisian calendar, the designer will be presenting her “Orígenes” collection, an ode to her Spanish and flamenco roots.

After her debut in July 2022 with the “Andalucía” collection, Juana Martín returns this January 26th to the official calendar of the Paris Haute Couture Week with “Orígenes”, a proposal that reflects the beginnings of her work in fabrics and prints, and offers a result true to her flamenco style, with a more avant-garde touch.

Inspired by her summers in Málaga, a place that has seen many of her creative processes, Juana Martín returns to this city to create “Orígenes”. The blue of its beaches, its people and the harmony of its land are embodied in this collection that, according to the designer’s words, “is designed for an elegant and transgressive woman, who dares to take another step towards evolution and personal development”.

This collection shows the essence of Juana Martín’s designs, both in the color palette based on black and white tones, as well as in the use of volumes, embroideries, ruffles and of course, polka dots. The fabric innovation and the abundant presence of crystals stand out in this collection, embroidered crystals and netted crystals, create meshes that cover the body of the sensual, daring and provocative woman.

Also, in the “Orígenes” fashion show we will be seeing accessories such as the Christian Louboutin shoes, Nadia Chellaoui bags and Plata Pura goldsmith work. A mixture of high-end firms have come together with a contemporary and an avant-garde point of view.

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Collezioni Donna

Michael Kors Collection SS23

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Urban resort…big city polish juxtaposed with relaxed resort glamour…
a celebration of the body…
plunging necklines, slashed skirts and dresses…architectural
Cutouts…sensuous sarongs, pareos, djellabas and caftans…the sharply tailored suit…
Soft wide-leg pants and relaxed shirts…crisp white and graphic black…the boldness
Of poppy and fuchsia…tones of pearl, silver, dune and gold…tropical shades of lime
And turquoise…the flirty movement of fringe…liquid jersey and satin…the shine of
Sequins…bold painterly florals…sculptural hip-slung belts and jewelry…the sleek
Modern minaudière…the oversized slouch bag…the barest strippy sandals from flat
To stiletto, slide to gladiator…natural glamour…spring / summer 2023

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