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Chanel Fall-Winter 2021/22 Ready-to-Wear collection

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“I love contrasts, so for the more voluminous winter pieces, I wanted a small space. I don’t know if this is because of the times we live in, but I wanted something warm, lively. I imagined the models doing a show for themselves, going from room to room, crossing each other in staircases, piling their coats up in the cloakroom and going up to the next floor to get changed. And I thought of the shows that Karl would tell me about, back in the day, a long time ago, when the models would dress themselves and do their own make-up,” says Virginie Viard describing the atmosphere of the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2021/22 Ready-to-Wear show.

“So, I decided to go to Castel. I like Castel so much for its many salons, the spiral staircase, its bar, the journey through this venue, its little house style, where the models can get changed, dressed and undressed, do their make-up together, and have fun like a girls night in. It’s very sensual.” A sensuality that also touches the collection teasers and press kit, staged by the duo Inez & Vinoodh who filmed this show playing with the contrasts so loved by Virginie Viard. Contrasts between volumes, materials and spirit. A long tweed coat with a chevron motif reveals bare legs wearing voluminous boots in black curly faux fur; a trouser suit in black tweed with small checks in blue lurex is adorned with thin braces in pearls and layers of sautoir necklaces. A white coat in patent sheepskin and lined with faux fur, is coupled with “down jacket” style two-tone boots, with unzippable legs giving way to a pair of silver heeled booties to go dancing in. The salopettes-ski suits in white quilting embroidered with red and blue motifs, or in fuchsia tweed, are worn with strappy sandals embellished with chains and little black bows or pumps adorned with a camellia, while delicate blouses in chiffon or crêpe de Chine are combined with pieces inspired by winter sportswear.
“This collection is a mix of two influences: the ambiance of ski holidays, which I adore, and a certain idea of cool Parisian chic, from the 1970s to now.”

Sequinned ballet flats, strass-covered minaudières worn like a sautoir necklace, a man’s black shirt with a white collar and cuffs under a precious suit in navy lurex, a tweed kilt over a knitted jumpsuit embellished with iridescent threads… “Today some of these silhouettes make me think of Stella Tennant’s allure, the way she wore certain pieces, it was so Chanel.”

#CHANELFallWinter

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MFWFW23

MFW – La bellezza senza tempo de Il Bisonte

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C’è sempre un prima ed un dopo. E’ l’ordine delle cose e del tempo. Ma quando si cerca di esprimere una bellezza senza tempo nella moda, spesso si pensa alla pelletteria de Il Bisonte che anche per questa MFW ha presentato un ottimo lavoro artigianale e una linea fedele al brand ma cercando non solo di sottolineare la qualità delle materie prime, ma il loro utilizzo sempre più unico e glamour. Per una donna istintiva si, ma vera e decisa, unica. Sino in fondo , sempre alla ricerca di esprimersi nel mood della bellezza  appunto “senza tempo”.

Una precisione e una linea che guida nei dettagli, sempre precisissimi e nella scelta e la cura che c’è nella realizzazione.
Una collezione che può insomma, creare dipendenza, dove le borse iconiche del marchio storico fiorentino , vengono presentate come pezzi unici che raccolgono l’eredità per una donna sempre più libera, unica e desiderosa di esprimere se stessa.  Se rimane l’uso della lavorazione quello che contraddistingue la linea, è bello vedere come la pelle conciata e trattata “al vegetale”, diventa non solo la tecnica dal sapore e dall’uso antico, ma anche un modo per riconoscersi in un mondo sempre più attento ai prodotti naturali, nella tradizione di quello che va di moda, ma naturale al 100%. Qualità e tradizione insomma che riescono in questa collezione ad ottenere un risultato unico e davvero dalla caratteristica inimitabile che esprime le tante anime di chi poi le userà: in un viaggio, in famiglia, da passeggio, in modo fluido, ma mai provocatorio. Modelli moderni e indipendenti. Sono nuovamente le crossbody a spiccare, tra equilibrio e leggerezza tra i colori in palette.

Un mood per una bellezza senza tempo, fuori dagli schemi e vera, autentica. Come le donne di oggi. Vere. Uniche e decise perchè mai in contrasto con le proprie scelte.

di Cristina T. Chiochia per DailyMood.it

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Theunissen FW23 show

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The Parisian brand Theunissen has presented his FW23 collection.

Founded in 2019, The Franco-Belgian brand created by Ariane Theunissen, presented the FW23 collection for its very first show in Mellerio’s prestigious store, the oldest high jewellery house in the world.

This season, THEUNISSEN is offering to us a collection inspired by the empowerement of women mixing with her true love for the 70’s and its icons which is the DNA of the brand. The silhouette of the models are highlights by the structure of the shoulders path and small waist to create strong and dramatic looks, encouraging the idea of the powerful woman.

Mixing the fabrics, the designer works this season with transparent mesh and wool to create a marked contrast all around the show, allowing the body to reveal itself.

To accessorize the collection, the designer collaborated with the leatherworker Nadia Chellaoui to create three oversize bags along with the brand Zila Russi for the shoes. Partner of the event, the jeweller Mellerio has lent 4 prestigious high jewellery necklaces to sublimate some looks (1, 3, 11, 19).

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Alexis Mabille – Ready-to-Wear Autmn-Winter 2023

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For his Ready-to-Wear Autmn-Winter 2023, Alexis Mabille presents a 15 looks collection.

The theme “Raibow Drops” is fully represented with a diverse colour palette.

1. Long hooded tuxedo dress in Danube blue crepe, rhinestone buttons, diamond buckle belt and patch pockets.

2.  Long tuxedo dress in emerald green crepe.

3.  Long corolla dress-shirt in Veronese green crepe embroidered with strawberries, jewel buttons.

4.  Long dress in rust colored radzimir twisted at the waist, shirt-sleeves in matching organza.

5.  Long bustier dress in red crepe, with large sleeves gathered at the neckline and crafted from matching radzimir.

6.  Corolla bustier gown in coral colored organza-satin with gathered detailing.

7.  Long parachute dress rolled up at the hem crafted from yellow crepe princess.

8.  Long corolla dress in pink radzimir, gathered sleeves in matching organza-satin, bow belt.

9. Long corolla dress in pink radzimir, gathered sleeves in matching organza-satin, bow belt.

10. Long off-shoulder blouse dress in safflower pink crepe, jewel buttons and satin belt.

11.  Long ruffled dress in hot pink radzimir, shirt collar and jewel buttons.

12. Long corolla dress in orange radzimir, gathered top with upper arm bow ties.

13. Long shirt-dress in lemon colored radzimir, V-shaped bustier and pinch pleated waist.

14.  Long corolla bustier dress in golden yellow radzimir, with neckline draped into a shawl.

15.  Long corolla dress in mustard and black colored changing taffeta, with black lace inserts. Matching belt.

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