Strolling the grounds of British boarding schools in a mash-up of college prep; flashy 80s hues and prints taking cue from the origins of sportswear in English stadiums and the outdoor-gone-fashion attitude of iconic Dsquared2 pieces. Flowing through high and low looks Dsquared2 established as their own; the Pre-Fall 2020 collection is a celebration of the brand’s style vocab and spirit.
Central to the lineup are the riffs on sportswear, expanded and exploded in new ways: spliced with tailoring, collegiate with patches and insignias, mixed with new denim washes and with a retro urban spin in monochrome tones.
Outerwear is built as the protagonist of looks, loaded with details, a symphony of Dsquared2 signatures. Trench coats and blazers have classic fronts to reveal a printed nylon windbreaker built into the reverse, and floor sweeping coats in plaid fabrics are in blanket style shapes.
New denim appreciation is key to the House of Dsquared2. Ultra-modern washes are papery to touch, or super soft and cut in new silhouettes in jean jackets, pants, jumpsuits, dresses and shorts, some covered with patches, other denim pieces are washed to show outlines of where patches were attached in diverse tones. ‘Diamond wash’ denim is coated in mini crystals, in black denim jackets and pants for men and inky blue denim skirts and jeans for women.
Breaking down the formal finish of British preppy style, Dsquared2’s College Heritage looks are an unexpected mix of Autumnal layers with retro inspired sportswear. Traditional checks, argyles and stripes like those in school uniforms are mixed with wide pants, soft, bright knits, cropped sweatshirts, miniskirts and vests with oversized patch pockets. Men’s striped rugby shirts are padded, and shirts feature unique prints including ‘God save the queens’ over a dragon, a ‘DC’ monogram and a Dsquared2 label which also appears on patch pockets of chinos and sweatshirts. Thick peacoats come in macro checks.
The collection’s D2 Supporters Club looks take inspiration from English sports culture, warm tones of orange and red elevated in nylon tracksuits and long windbreakers, emblazoned with retro styled logos. Checks and thick vertical stripes are printed on men’s shirts. Denim jeans, jackets and shorts have nylon inserts to create puffy side profiles. Color blocking in beige, red and navy take shape in coats, wide pants, shorts and jackets. A bounty of outerwear protects fans from the cold watching the match, including Fuzzy Teddy jackets, a women’s red leather quilted biker and puffer jackets in hyper volumes and lengths.
Athletic pieces are given an elegant monochrome finish in the Urban Athletic lineup. Men’s and women’s black sporty silhouettes in the funnel neck jacket and matching track pant, a mini skirt, trousers, jacket and coat have a grosgrain ribbon trim printed with white rubber Dsquared2 and maple leaf logo running down the pant legs and sleeves. Influenced by city billboard advertisements, a black-and-white allover print featuring the Dsquared2 logo are cut into wardrobe essentials: a tank, pants, sweatshirts. Leather jackets in fitted blazer shapes or relaxed clean biker styles are mixed with boxy tailored coats.
From Dsquared2’s ICON collection, pieces that revel in the brand’s heritage, jeans with mud splattered legs, long parkas with abundant faux fur collars, Canadian red and black check shirts and coats.
Shoes meld refined details with an urban footprint. The Tank sole, imprinted with brand symbols—maple leafs and lug lines—is fitted to men’s and women’s leather shoes and sneakers. Tank Rain women’s heeled rain boots are in a gummy textured leather in primary tones. Tank Urban men’s boots have a mountaineer look with laces and nylon padded tongues. Mixing a sneaker and an urban shoe, the Bobby has a sporty leather upper with fringes on a thick lug sole—worn with tailoring and casual looks. A Canadian hiking boot features a leather tab embossed with the DC logo over the laces, hooks and check lining details. Lustrous leather and a stacked heel define the Jack women’s boot. College, a line of women’s moccasins and lace-ups with chunky heels in brushed leather are worn with long socks.
Evening shoes include New Punk, a classic men’s lace-up also in patent, with a logo embedded in the heel and velvet moccasins with a maple leaf embroidered in bullion wire. Feng, women’s ankle strap sandals featuring a gold stiletto textured heel. Men’s duffle bags, backpacks and totes are crafted from puffer style fabrics and nylon with grosgrain logo tape. The Key bag is redesigned in versatile cross body shapes, with maxi logos. Versatile tote, backpack, camera and belt bag styles in black leather are defined by the same black and white logo tape logo as a maxi puller in black webbing. A functional shopper bag in smooth calf leather with everyday appeal, the Penny, has metal ring hardware and logo plate, as well as a detachable shoulder strap. Clutches are crafted in for the day in hounds tooth fabric or leathers wrapped with a Dsquared2 logo tape to coordinate with ready-to-wear and in clean, elegant lines for the evening with metal heart embellishments.
Vintage checks and stripes underscore the college theme in the collection’s unisex soft hat the design merging a baseball cap with a beret, and long scarves, which are also detailed with the DC monogram.
New tailoring encompasses sartorial sophistication in business suiting for men and women. A new man’s fit, the Boston DB features a double-breasted jacket with fitted shoulders and cut, the wider pants slightly cropped at the ankle in traditional gray and pinstriped fine wools. Women’s suiting has Dsquared2 dualism: feminine glam in fitted jackets with tailored miniskirts or pleated shorts; and oversized slouch in double-breasted jackets over wide pants and a cropped sleeve camel wool coat with soft dropped shoulders.
Eveningwear is made for ‘your name is on the list’ arrivals. Sartorial lines take on sensual forms in women’s plunging neckline jumpsuits with matching jackets, while double-breasted jackets in crêpe de chine, are paired with a wide-legged trouser. Men’s classic black tux jackets are worn with jeans treated with ‘Diamond wash’ revealing tonal mini crystals. Other jackets are in leopard jacquard lurex or heavyweight blue denim, which open to reveal shimmering crystal-coated evening shirts.
Genny Fall/Winter 2020 – 2021
Un sogno verso mondi e civiltà lontane: Genny firma il viaggio nella più moderna eleganza.
Per l’autunno-inverno 2020/21, il Direttore Creativo Sara Cavazza Facchini inizia con il ricordo dell’Orient-Express, ancora oggi un viaggio leggendario in cui ognuno può però immedesimarsi. Queste carrozze, dai tessuti sontuosi ma moderni, dall’eleganza di modi oltre che di pose, erano fin dai tempi di Agatha Christie un lusso personale, per pochi seppure ambito da molti. Un’esperienza da vivere anche oggi, senza pensare ai drammi delle pellicole di Sidney Lumet o Kenneth Branagh, lasciandosi piuttosto trasportare da feste e momenti indimenticabili, compagnie e affetti con cui celebrare attimi speciali.
Le mete di oggi sono ancora Istanbul, Londra o Parigi ma in questa collezione ci portano in tempi e dimensioni immaginari. Come lo scrittore Paul Theroux che ama i viaggi in treno, Sara Cavazza Facchini arriva fino all’Oriente più estremo ed esplora con stile evocativo ma preciso esotismi tessili per raccontare una bellezza che è fusione di realtà e ricerca.
Tutte le giacche da business woman sono ricostruite sartorialmente per lasciare un’allure femminile ma anche per stupire con dettagli couture. Che indossi spille Art Déco come chiusure, si adorni di bottoni in stile Suzanne Belperron o sfoggi luccicanti collane-passamaneria con speciali Swarovski, la donna Genny non è prigioniera del suo ruolo di seduttrice ma alterna gusti e abbinamenti da diva e da business woman.
Ha come capo prediletto il jump suit, un’elegante tuta perfetta per chi vuole esaltare la propria silhouette di giorno come di sera. Anche la cravatta diventa quasi un pendente in seta ricamato da ramages floreali in bianco e nero. I Principe di Galles, i gessati e gli spigati si ingentiliscono con borse manicotto e le sete hanno motivi di fiori e germogli giapponesi. I preziosi jacquard riprendono scene mitologiche dell’Asia imperiale e altri ancora in trame metalliche delineano petali e segni grafici sui nuovi cappotti kimono. Le cinture obi diventano fiocchi, incroci e nodi per rendere originale ogni look. Al pari dei guanti lunghi al gomito ma ampi, calati e scenografici.
Fra il candore del bianco ghiaccio, il verde giada o il rosa quarzo, non mancano i beige e sabbia oltre agli abiti in lamé bordeaux o grafite e oro. Un occhio di riguardo va ai tessuti come alle lane sostenibili (create con Tencel e jojoba), riciclate e anche naturali. La seta è di tipo Gots ovvero Global Organic Textile Standard, biologica e certificata. Anche il denim usato ha una tintura che riduce gli sprechi d’acqua e non danneggia l’ambiente. Infine, l’uso di alcantara dona un effetto daino eco-friendly visto le qualità intrinseche della materia.
Un viaggio che dimentica le solite rotaie del vestire per tracciare nuove traiettorie di garbata femminilità, donanti proporzioni e soffusi esotismi. Con il pensiero ultimo di speranza e fortuna dato dai biscotti beneauguranti asiatici, dedicati agli ospiti della sfilata e a tutta la popolazione cinese.
Autumn-Winter 2020 Collection #D25
The low slung, skinny and hiked high silhouettes mixed with the sexiness and attitude of Dsquared2 25 years ago are redefined for 2020 to give new spirit to the brand Dean and Dan Caten founded.
lconic pieces from the archive are redesigned by playing with proportions, super tight and shrunken or oversize, with a tactile washed look and feel in warm, earthy tones. Every look appears as if individually treated with a lived-in soul. The pieces Dsquared2 made its own remain pure to the brand’s roots, with added contemporary finish; a Montgomery coat is cropped high, a mini bustier dress in soft, pale baby blue mohair, and the underwear V-front jeans twisted and wrinkled on the legs over hidden 10cm high platform heeled men’s square-toe biker boots. Masculinity is blurred with femininity through the slightly exposed midriffs, cropped shirt sleeves, and jewelry that dangles with colored crystal rock pendants or leather feathers.
Cardigan coats, vests, in ribbed silk, fuzzy mohair and cashmere are layered one over the other in sensual styling, and the check shirt-a staple of the Dsquared2 wardrobe-in linen for winter has a worn-in finish. Thenatural shades of the line-up connect to nature outdoors, a piace where Dsquared2 designed its fashion to play in for a quarter of a century. Canadian country wilderness is seen in lumberjack checked coats and pants fringed on their sides. Mountain blanket red stripes are in bandeau style miniskirts and a poncho. Shearling coats are draped long around denim and Western boots. Hammered metal medallions and suede fringing embellish half-moon shaped bags with large buckles or metal ring handles.
Pumped up long parkas are worn over a men’s look that appears from anime, contrasting in cartoon-like sizes over clinging rubber high neck, long sleeve tops, wrinkled leather pants and mini cropped knitted vests. Women’s waist grazing raw cut jackets have collars decked with a flourish of eco fur, super low waist leather shorts. Oversized hanging military style pockets are built onto the classic Dsquared2 cotton canvas pant. Jeans, Dsquared2 DNA, are presented long, bleached on the thighs and wrinkled on the calf; or as a pair with two waists, one dropped to the hip, button fly open to reveal the front zip and button of another, looped in a leather belt with oversized gem stone buckle.
The collection reveals its heart in the phrase ‘love is•••‘, taken from a comic strip by cartoonist Kim Casali which was inspired by a series of love notes she drew for her future husband. A cherished motif from their childhood, Dean and Dan put the short statement in its curled lettering in jacquard knits, with a view that two simple words capture the sentiment the world needs right now.
Chanel – Spring-summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection
“I was thinking about actresses at the photocall, on the red carpet, that moment when they’re being called to by the photographers: their faces a little distracted, their attitude a little out of sync with the outfits they’re wearing. And then there are the fans waiting for them behind the barriers, this very lively side to cinema that happens beyond cinema, that’s what I like,” explains Virginie Viard, “This collection is a tribute to the muses of the House. Some of them are far away, it’s been a long time since we saw them. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld dressed so many actresses in films and in real life. I was thinking about them who make us dream so much. But without wanting to replicate. Without falling into a vintage citation. I wanted it to be very joyful, colourful, and very vibrant too.”
So, alongside the ecru and black tweed suits, are jeans in fluorescent colours, fluid dresses and t-shirts printed with the letters of CHANEL like neon-lights, pale pink capri pants, long dresses printed with little flowers in black and white, or in an ultra-fine tweed, outfits embroidered with sequins, bermuda short suits and layers of asymmetry…
The silhouettes, staged in the collection press kit by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, are embodied by Rianne Van Rompaey, Mica Argañaraz and Louise de Chevigny, each one of them in four recurring cinematic situations: on the telephone, looking out of the window, sitting on a bed or walking down the street, just like scenes from a film. An evocation of the Nouvelle Vague, of Italian cinema and of Hollywood. “Because the world of Chanel evokes so many images, a whole unconscious that’s linked to cinema,” concludes Virginie Viard.
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