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Chanel Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture

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This season, the Grand Palais becomes the vast Mediterranean garden of a beautiful, big house. A pool of water is surrounded by trees and Southern plant species in a harmony of neat lines. Pathways are almost “à la française“, like 18th century gardens. Indeed, it’s this period, his favourite, that has inspired Karl Lagerfeld, and in particular the talents of the marchands-merciers and the savoir-faire of the artisans of French luxury. Among the artistic themes of that century, flowers play an important role. Now, they are at the heart of CHANEL’s Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture collection, embroidered, painted, in lace, in feathers, in resin and also in ceramic, they appear even as hair jewels. They explode in bouquets of pastel pink, prairie green and sky blue, and in games of black, white, beige, navy blue, iridescent gold and silver. “It’s a serene, ideal, timeless collection, that’s absolutely now, with new shapes”, says Karl Lagerfeld.

Two silhouettes stand out, perched on strappy pumps revisiting an 18th century shoe. The first is long and slender: the head held high above wide boat necklines and supported by shoulders split with a hollow fold, both slightly rounded and pointed, highly graphic. Following the line of the body, lengths run to mid-calf. The second is more flowing with voluminous bell and corolla shapes, full skirts and the bust enveloped with straight or balloon sleeves. Sometimes, the fullness of a bust crosses the tubular line of a skirt or trousers and vice versa.
Like a central theme, one construction detail comes up every time: a collar or panel of a dress turned inside out, a rounded fold adorning a jacket, a skirt or a neckline, creating trompe-l’oeil and new volumes.

The dresses and the suits are very refined. On shouldered jackets with boat necklines and on the zip-up skirts that fall to mid-calf, or wraparound skirts cut to the knee, the braid quite literally melts into the fabric: embroidered into the tweed, the lamé wool or the grain de poudre, it further amplifies the pure line of what Karl Lagerfeld is calling “the new CHANEL“. Certain jackets are lengthened like tunics, while others with no collar but a folded lapel, geometric or asymmetric, adopt a double row of buttons. Some, belted high, are extended from a peplum or, conversely, shortened like spencer jackets or aged leather jackets, occasionally warmed with feathers.

On the dresses, reversed collars give the impression of a bolero. Here the braiding highlights the hyper graphic structure of the silhouette. The reversed pleat reappears on the bust and the hem of the dresses with big bell skirts in matt satin: pulled to the waist, opening like petals at the front or over the hips, they are lined with a second colour or with floral seedlings. Other dresses in sequinned silk faille are adorned with a lateral train inversed and flounced in lace, raised to the waist. A big dress with a pink lace skirt painted by hand has balloon sleeves finished with flat bows and ruffles cut into the serrated edge of the lace. Another in hand-painted blue lace is embroidered with ribbons laid like stripes. A flounced godet lengthens a skirt worn with a peplum top. The skirt of a suit in crêpe lamé is embellished with a burst of torn tulle.

In tune with the frivolity of 18th century style, the “lingerie” dresses in white pleated chiffon are interspersed with ennobled lace, ruffles and ladder lace. A dress in pleated chiffon slit with entre-deux lace is worn with a very structured leather jacket, for a contrasting and ultra-graphic silhouette. On the same principle a sequinned tweed skirt is coupled with a little cape covered with feathers and fastened at the neck with a leather bow.

The ateliers reveal here the treasures resulting from such patience and savoir-faire: on these dresses, every horizontal blind tuck is completed by hand, taking up to 350 hours of work. On one organza dress embroidered with flowers made from feathers, the organ pleats that animate the ruffles are gathered thread by thread. The smocked lozenges of a silk blouse are sewn by hand and held in place by 650 beads. A black leather dress cut in spirals is aerated by ladder lace. An entirely sequinned white suit embroidered with patterns inspired by the porcelain of the Manufacture de Vincennes is a veritable work of art. An organza dress with a bolero effect is embroidered with real flowers immortalised in resin. Finally, a long green sequinned dress is embroidered with hand-painted ceramic flowers.

The bride breaks all the rules. Beneath a silver sequinned white veil, she steps out in an embroidered bathing suit and swimming hat.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2019 Haute Couture show was applauded by the ambassadors Kristen Stewart, Pharrell Williams, Tilda Swinton, Marine Vacth, Anna Mouglalis, Alma Jodorowsky and Caroline de Maigret, as well as the director Sofia Coppola, the actresses Tessa Thompson, Marion Cotillard and Carole Bouquet and the singer Chris.
#CHANELHauteCouture

Credit Image: @Chanel

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CLAIRE DE LUNE Maria Aristidou Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection

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MARIA ARISTIDOU – “CLAIR DE LUNE”
Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week

Looking up into the night sky you feel motionless and mesmerized as you fall prey to the moon’s charm. Whether it is crescent or full, you bear witness to an eternal celestial struggle for dominance between light and darkness.

The moon’s power and its magnetism are transcended to us through its light. It is this very moonlight that, like an invisible veil, dresses up the night and sets the mood. Whether it falls upon an ocean, a desert or upon a woman’s body it inspires romanticism, a feeling of mystery, elegance and seduction, a fascination with the female form.

Maria Aristidou’s knit Couture Collection Fall Winter 2019/20 is an ode to Clair de Lune.
The cuts, the designs and accessories with hand embroidered embellishments on colourful, luxurious knit fabrics, made by the designer; they all accentuate the timeless romance, femininity and uniqueness that are defined in every flicker, every speck of Clair de Lune.

The magic of knitwear inspired the designer to first explore and then create, using luxurious threads and elaborate techniques, various knit patterns. The craftsmanship of detailed hand embroideries adds to the uniqueness of Maria Aristidou’s fabric collections for the couture evening and accessories.
The process of each collection production starts from the fabric design. Yarns such as wool, viscose, lurex, cotton, silk and velvet are ordered from France and Italy.  Then, a series of patterns are designed in great detail followed by a series of tests to decide on the yarns will be used for each pattern, how thick or thin the fabric to be, colour sampling combinations, hand-embroidery design testing, quality and durability checks etc.  The whole design and production processes take place in Cyprus.

 

 

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KRATON – Baroqco Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection

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KRATON
Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

The collection is inspired by the Javanese Tradition that still remains in the princedom, located in the region of Surakarta in the center of java island in Indonesia. Until now, Pura Mangkunegaran has its own arts and cultures and one among the others is the dance which claims to have the original style created by people of Pura Mangkunagaran themselves. This uniqueness gives the identity in diversity. To create Masterpieces in reflections to the originality in honour to the Mangkunegaran tradition for being unique and giving the symbiosis with a BaroQco touch. For being unique is to be different and to be different you are unique.
I have made pieces with metal ornaments, that is crafted layer after layer in combination with SWAROVKSI ELEMENTS© and semi precious stones. The Semi precious stones are from a variety of countries such as Indonesia and Brazil. The usage of real and genuine material gives the pieces a certain value.
Each masterpiece is well thought over. It is initiated with the concept design, production plan and than production. Ornaments are plated in palladium and or 24K gold. Once the ornaments are ready the following steps are to make the ornaments into the frame work of the masterpiece and than set with SWAROVKSI ELEMENTS©. And for some pieces we will finish it with strings-beads of semi precious stones to make the masterpiece complete.

The first series is more into the Royal Mangkunegaran style, with the touch of us, BaroQco. With The royal colours Green, Yellow/Gold, Black, Dark Blue. This series is plated in the raw colour of ancient gold.
The second series is showing the beauty of the Javanese art tradition by metal works of different flowers and tropical flora and fauna ornaments. In this series the ornaments are plated in the raw colour of ancient silver/palladium. We are using recycled silver for the plating just to be more ECO friendly. The Colours that we use are a variety of colours specifically for winter dark colours like dark blue, siam, etc
In Javanese philosophy, the colors are yellow/gold guards against sleepiness, blue against disease/disaster, black against hunger, green against stress/frustration, white against desire/lust, orange against fear, red against evil and purple against bad thoughts.
The meaning of the Legacy is that in the past at the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1889, K.G.P.A.A Mangkunagoro V brought the Javanese culture to Paris. The collaboration between the French and the Javanese is made because of the efforts by Mangkunegaran in order to introduce the kingdom into the Western society and to adopt western life style or culture in Java by developments in arts, buildings, military without forgetting Javanese elements as their identity.
BaroQco is embracing the Mangkunegaran to be remembered and that their Legacy thrives on in Paris in the Collection of BaroQco during the Paris fashionweek Haute Couture.

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TRUE LOVE – Madleine Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection

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TRUE LOVE
Fall Winter 2019/20 Couture Collection
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

MADLEINE design’s are feminine, yet sleek, affectionate and always a powerful statement for rising beauty of female creation. Using the most precious fabrics, silks, brocade, cloche, organza, taffetas, shantung.

Madleine’s passion for fashion started when she was only 9 years old, making her very first dress. In high school and college she made the dresses for her classmates with the occasion of the graduation balls. At the age of 20, she opened a small atelier and at 21, she held her first fashion show in Budapest, her home town. In 2011, Madleine founded her own fashion brand without being intimidated of the pressure to make her mark and her designs recognizable. She felt motivated by the ‘challenge’ to bring something new to the highly competitive global fashion market. First customers were impressed not only with her creative talent but also her attention to detail and ultimate quality.

Researching the power of TRUE LOVE, Madleine during her spiritual journey, find the holy cave of Mary Magdalene in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume, France. This was a life changing event for her. This is what sparked her inspiration to create her first Haute Couture Collection. The miracle of Love and Faith has led to only a path leading to a soul and spiritual development.
Madleine spirit-inspired, ethereal-looking collection leads us through the mysterious female figure of history, through the earthly statues of Mary Magdalene, to the ultimate fulfillment of existence, the unio mystica, the mystical unity. According to the Evangelical teachings, Mary-Magdalene was an equal companion of Jesus, the supreme supporter, and even the number one Apostle.
With her first collection, Madleine honors Mary Magdalene’s accomplished Divine mission, to the Messenger, Apostolic role, to admit her unconditional Love. This is what shines through the finale look of the collection, a gown covered with Diamonds.
Talented designer Aldé Baran created a stunning collection of extraordinary shoes for True Love.

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