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Allina Liu / FW24 Collection

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FW24: The Daughters of NYX

“Life is a twisted finite thread. The thread is a segment, a line connecting two points. Clotho spins the thread of life into the spindle.

Lachesis measures the thread of life allotted to each person. Life is temporal, we are portions of time. Atropos cuts the thread and Death arrives. Birth and death, cradle and grave…and the rest is silence…” – Aquileana, Allea Jacta est (The Die Has Been Cast) Part I

In Greek mythology, Nyx is the goddess and personification of the night. Among the most noteworthy of her many children were three sisters who became known as The Moirai (The Fates).

As their name suggests, The Moirai determined the fate of every being, human and divine. In many accounts, The Moirai were said to be more powerful than any gods and determined deities lifespans as well.

Before any being is born, Clotho (The Spinner) spins their thread of life, Lachesis (The Allotter) measures the thread, and Atropos (The Inevitable) cuts the thread. All lives are predetermined by the 3 sisters and cannot be altered. There are only a handful of stories that depict The Fates interacting with others and extending their lifespans.

For Fall 24, the focal point of Liu’s collection is a print created in collaboration with LA-based artist, Leanne
Kissinger. Kissinger hand paints every component with gouache and then translates them into a repeat pattern. With both individuals coming from a fine art background, Liu and Kissinger’s work compliment each other by creating unique yet wearable prints that are rooted in deeper meaning.

In Liu’s fall print, a red Shibari (the Japanese art of intricate knot tying) rope weaves through organically placed orchids and broken shards of Chinese Ming porcelain. The rope symbolizes both The Fates’ thread of life as well as Liu’s endeavor to explore sexuality as an Asian Americanraised in a traditional Chinese household. The broken ceramics mirror the designer’s experience of attempting to assimilate while simultaneously trying to hold onto her heritage. The rope snakes through the shards, representing her journey of self discovery.

In order to navigate two different cultures, Liu turned to other Asian artists who have delved into the taboo space of sexuality. Late Chinese photographer Ren Hang and controversial Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, became prime sources of inspiration for Liu as she matured.
Both Hang and Araki were Asian artists who challenged the norm of their suppressed cultures and created works that either disgusted or intrigued the viewers.

Araki’s works in particular resonated. His photographs largely focus on women tied or suspended with red Shibari rope. Leaning into the idea of power in sexuality, Liu began to incorporate knots and suspension into her work.
In addition to the signature ties in the garments, Araki’s influence is also seen in the presentation itself. Red ropes are woven into the models hair and attached to each other, creating an ongoing tether. The rope references the thread of life that connects us all and serves as a subtle nod to Jordan Peele’s 2019 movie titled Us, as an ode to Liu’s love of horror. Lastly in the corner, the three sisters (who are not attached to any earthly tethers), await you.

 CREDITS:
Credits – Shoe Sponsor
: Doctor Martens, Hair Sponsor: Shokunin Education LLC, Hair Product Sponsor: Alfaparf Milano Professional, Beauty: Anthony Tulve Team, Florals: Love Me Not Floral, Lookbook Photographer: Anna Letson, Styling: Christina Knebel, Public Relations: Lindsey Media, Event Photographer: Getty Images, Production Team: C. O’Neil Productions, Print Designer: Leanne Kissinger, Lighting: Devlin’s, Design Interns: Jesse McBrearty, Carmel Mu, NYFW Volunteers: Morgan Zuanic, Jordie Hennigar, Victoria Huerta, Constant Moral Support: My amazing husband, Jay

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Chanel – Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-To-Wear Collection

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Deauville is where everything started for the House. 1912, the creation of her hat shop and then very quickly the first clothes with their visionary, radical style. It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel. This story is very close to my heart,” confides Virginie Viard. On the racecourse, on the seaside, at the gaming table, in restaurants and palaces, on the “Planches” boardwalk: everything is about elegance and self-staging.

For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk, she adds. Giant screens on which long, romantic silhouettes stroll in the light from dawn to dusk.” Shrouded in mystery, the models walk along the beach. The 1920s and 70s cross paths and intertwine.

Androgynous and cinematic, the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard draws its femininity from Gabrielle Chanel’s own wardrobe and its masculinity from the subtle elegance of winter sojourns by the sea. Broad-shouldered peacoats and long dressing-gown-style belted coats are worn over tweed suits – box-pleated skirts, culottes or cropped trousers –, drop-front trousers or trousers with tabs at the back.


Chunky sailor sweaters and knits featuring the landscapes of Deauville alternate with silk blouses with middy collars, herringbone prints, low-cut tops with flounces, jumpsuits and negligees whose delicacy evokes gentle waves breaking and a soft wind blowing.

The palette takes its vibrant or pastel shades of pink, mauve, orange and pale blue from the ever-changing colours of the Deauville sky, along with brown and gold lamé. 35mm film and cinema tickets: prints refer to the town’s connection with the 7th art, its American Film Festival and Claude Lelouch’s A Man and a Woman, to which Inez and Vinoodh’s film opening the show pays tribute.

The silhouette of David Bowie, the magnetism of film stars walking on the sand, like Anouk Aimée, a great friend of Gabrielle Chanel… this collection pays homage to these familiar figures.”

The iconic bags are omnipresent, as are the pastel-hued wide-brimmed hats, colourful silk scarves, heeled knee-high boots and thigh-high boots in sheepskin, a direct nod to Anouk Aimée’s coat in A Man and a Woman.

It’s a very warm collection, with layers of materials, colours and volumes. It pays tribute to Deauville, the legendary place where Gabrielle Chanel’s destiny changed forever.”

Copyright CHANEL

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Paloma Wool presents their Autumn-Winter 2024 Collection

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The collection follows spontaneous effortlessness with further emphasis on a defined silhouette. From the iconic graphic knitwear to the brand’s elevated streetwear with technical materials; paloma wool’s collection exudes a sense of sophistication and versatility. Velvet pieces imbue femininity and elevate the overall aesthetic with a touch of luxury, while multiposition pieces offer various styling options. The inclusion of silk garments facilitates effortless layering, and argyle-printed knitwear sets a distinctive tone throughout the collection.

The show was led by a performance directed by Carlota Guerrero, in which a group of women carried out an experimental pétanque game, and styled by Emilie Kareh.

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ALEXIS MABILLE FW 2024 – PARIS FASHION WEEK

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Society
1. Long strapless sheath dress in brick-red crepe with a draped décolleté.

2. Billowy shirtdress in blood-red crepe.

3. Long wrap dress in pinky-red crepe with bow-belt.

4. Long wrap dress in red crepe with long slit sleeves, waist with brandenburgs appliqués.

5. Long tailored dress in red silk piqué, waist and shoulders with brandenburgs appliqués.

6. Evening shirtdress in raspberry silk piqué with flounced skirt.

7. Shirt-gown in raspberry silk piqué, with fixed inverted pleats at the waist.

8. Long corolla shirtdress in black radzimir, shoulders inlaid with matching lace, sleeve belt.

9. Trapeze dress in black silk piqué and satin, fastened by ties in the back.

10. Long, twirling sheath dress with asymmetrical scarf neckline crafted from black crepe.

11. Black crepe batwing jumpsuit with brandeburgs belt.

12. Long jacket-dress in navy blue crepe with satin facings and buttons.

13. Long shirtdress crafted from off-white silk faille and inlaid with Lyon lace, satin belt.

14. Shirtdress with batwing sleeves and corolla skirt crafted from champagne silk piqué and satin, matching knotted belt.

15. Long gown in champagne silk piqué, with a matching satin bow-neckline and panel.

16. Grand slip dress in nude radzimir with brandenburgs appliqués.

17. Long asymmetrical dress crafted from flesh-colored jersey satin, with front-and-back satin panels and a split shirt sleeve.

18. Long shirtdress in blush-colored crepe with split cape-sleeves, matching satin belt.

19. Long square shirtdress in peach-colored crepe with stitched satin collar.

20. Long corolla boat neck dress crafted from pale pink silk piqué, with satin kimono belt.

21. Long bustier dress in pale pink silk piqué, with a crepe scarf hold by brandenburgs.

CREDITS
Photo
Marcel Nestler

Hair & Make-up
Beautick

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