We examine childlike joy and naïve creativity. The very human experience of experiencing crushing heartbreak and ecstatic joy simultaneously. The magical wonder of seeing the first inspiration. The temptation of a bad idea. The joy and fragility of the single bright idea.
Look 1 Red Girl. Kelis wears oversized hoodie in red satin with hand-embroidered castle motif. Corset in red parquet silk jacquard, worn with tonal red tulle skirt and gold locket necklace.
Look 2 Pink & Green Girl. Larissa wears cropped corset in pea-green faille with hand-embroidered pink bugle bead bow. Over sized bow-back shirt in green tulle with faille edging. Skirt in fuchsia and green silk jacquard with parquet motif.
Look 3 The Herald. Veronika wears open-backed mini Juno dress with in lollipop red crepe back satin. Thigh-high socks and matching gloves with hand-embroidered red feathers, sequin, and crystal parquet moitf. Robin hood headpiece and feather in red tulle-wrapped wire.
Look 4 The Gate. Malik wears long severe-fit dress, fully hand embroidered with gunmetal and gold metal bugle beads, and fringed ball chain, in “castle gate” woven parquet motif. Snood and thong in fully hand-embroidered gold metal bugle beads, with gold cherub and pearl rings.
Look 5 The Princess. Coral wears wasp corset and princess skirt in fuchsia recycled satin. Harness in polished silver chain with fuchsia crystals, and hand-embroidered tulle cape with chain motif.
Look 6 The Bishop. Amira wears long hooded robe in black metallic moiré with heavy gold chain closure. Sleeveless column mini dress, gloves and hood in fully hand-embroidered gold bugle beads.
Look 7 The Knight. Aquaria wears codpiece dress with fully hand-embroidered “suit of armor” motifs – with mauve metallic bugle beads, fuchsia crystals, mirrored stones, and shades of cut beads. Fingerless gloves in black tulle, and long chain belt in silver pewter.
Look 8 The Horsegirl. Somalia wears gold chainmail dress with godet tulle skirt in shades of crimson, fuchsia, yellow plum, pea green, violet, and persimmon. Thong in gold hand-embroidered sequins and cut beads, with gold chain bracelet and earrings.
Look 9 The Prince. Carmen wears corset in orange tulle with satin details. Macramé skirt in orange silk charmeuse, woven with gold ball chain and adorned with silk moiré ribbons. Fingerless gloves in orange tulle, worn with “framed” necklace, earrings and bracelet with topaz-colored crystals in gold settings.
Look 10 The Sorceress. Rima wears purple metallic moiré hoodie with black ostrich feather lining. Purple metallic moiré sleeveless column dress with jet crystal fringe diamond embroidery, and matching cropped riding jacket. Fingerless gloves in purple tulle, with silver fingertip jewelry, and snood in black glass bugle beads.
Look 11 The Witch. Ivy wears tulle cutout bodysuit, fully hand-embroidered with 200 black baroque freshwater pearls, each adorned with a silk moiré ribbon bow. Thong in black satin with hand-embroidered iridescent cut beads. Trailing ribbon cloak in pearlescent ghost organza, with matching baroque pearl ring and earrings.
Look 12 The Plague. Michael wears green metallic dress, hand-embroidered with black heron in iridescent cut beads and feathers. Neck corset in black metallic moiré and black fingerless gloves in sequin-embroidered tulle.
Look 13 The Treasure Chest. Fernando wears treasure chest coat, in fully hand-embroidered satin with oversized jewelry motifs, and bright green marabou feather lining. Fuchsia bow mini top and skirt with flounced tulle sprays. Matching gloves in bright green marabou, with gems coin purse.
Look 14 The Rose Garden. Nora wears dropped-waist fancy dress with bodice in hand-embroidered black sequins and beads, and skirt in black metallic moiré. Corset in purple metallic moiré, and coat in green metallic moiré, with swagged sequin veil and black moiré rose appliqués. Horned headpiece in black tulle with wrapped wire architecture. Rose bouquet in recycled satin with hand embroidered beads and crystals.
Look 15 The Dungeon. Teddy wears wasp corset in black double-faced silk satin, with gunmetal-plated pewter chainmail skirt. Snood in fully hand-embroidered metal bugle beads, with gunmetal and crystal fingertip rings.
Look 16 The Lady in Waiting. Sarah wears dropped-waist fancy dress with bodice in hand-embroidered parquet pattern and skirt in chartreuse double-faced silk satin. Hennin veiled headpiece in fuchsia tulle and wire understructure. Long fingerless gloves in fuchsia tulle, with gold and pearl fingertip rings and gold chain skirt
Look 17 The Wizard. Mido wears sleeveless men’s-fit column dress in black double-faced silk satin, with tulle sprays and silver corsetry grommet and ring details with ribbon ties.
Look 18 The Executioner. Yerim wears mini dress and oversized bow in red recycled satin, with crystal corset motif and hand-embroidered feather and paillette bodice and skirt. Hooded bodysuit and opera mask in fully embroidered black glass bugle beads.
Look 19 Mother. Silvia wears bow mini skirt and top, constructed from hand-embroidered gold bugle bead bows, with sprays of metallic gold silk tulle.
Look 20 The Court Painter. Lucy wears bow-shoulder corset and forked skirt in bright green silk mikado, with wrought iron window inspired embroidery hand-embroidered with green bugle beads, tweed yarns; and sequins, all edged with corsetry lacing. Snood in fuchsia tulle with hand-embroidered bugle bead bow motif.
Look 21 Curtain Call. Bruna wears sleeveless column dress fully-embroidered with Looney-Tunes spotlight embroidery in pointillist-style beading, with rose bouquet in beaded satin. Gloves and opera mask in hand-embroidered net with mirrored plexiglass mosaic.
Look 22 specter 2. Zach wears flounced bubble dress in black silk mikado, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.
Look 23 Specter 2. Leslie wears nightgown dress with ribbon ties in black silk chiffon, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.
Look 24 specter 3. Zeke wears Edwardian gown in black recycled faille, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.
Look 25 specter 4. Tara wears open-backed Juno dress in black crepe back satin, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.
Look 26 The Bright Idea. Danielle wears corseted gown with sleeves and skirt in riveted steel wrapped with gold satin, draped with gold ghost organza.
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CREDITS Makeup: Allie Smith with skincare provided by Tula
Hair: Sean Bennett with hair provided by Aqua Extensions
Nails: Holly Falcone
Movement Direction: Austin Goodwin
Production and Scenery: Eyesight Group
Shoes: Syro
Public Relations: Lindsey Media
Models: Kelis Robinson, Larissa Leung, Veronika Villim, Malik Brand, Coral, Amira Pinheiro, Aquaria, Somalia Knight, Carmen Garcia, Rima Naufal, Ivy Stewart, Michael Phillips, Fernando Casablancas, Nora Senkal, Teddy Quinlivan, Sarah Abney, Mido Elghazawi, Yerim, Silvia Ranguelova, Lucy Sanchez, Bruna Ludtke, Leslie Andrea Williams, Tara Langdon, Zeke Lindsay, Zachary Burrows, Danielle Mareka
The Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2023 pre-collection campaign, photographed by David Sims with Karolina Spakowski, Celina Ralph, Sora Choi, Alaato Jazyper, Amanda Murphy, Florence Huntington-Whiteley, Florence Hutchings, Élise Crombez, Colin Jones, Rejoice Chuol, Wang Han, Wanessa Milhomem and Adhel Bol.
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Pre autumn/winter 2023 womenswear collection
An exploration of beauty and power through tailoring and a focus on cut, proportion and silhouette. The classic subverted: wardrobe spliced and slashed. Uniform is re-imagined. Hyper nature. Solarized flowers appear alongside bright pinks, yellows and reds and elaborate crystal embroideries.
Emirati based designer, Ayten AlKhayat, launched her brand in 2016 wishing to change the perception of women in the Middle-East.
The brand has created a connection between structure, craftsmanship and fabric, highlighting both the femininity and strength of the woman. It was born out of a desire to encapsulate the compassion, empathy and core strength that is central to womanhood.
At the helm of this vision is designer Ayten AlKhayat epitomising the international woman she dresses, she has amalgamated the influences brought about by her European, African and middle eastern heritage to bridge the gap and highlight her lifelong passion for design, ethical issues and organic materials. Dissatisfied with the status quo and the propensity for using man made substances, Ayten launched a brand that would serve the need for natural fabrics and materials whilst creating beautiful pieces within a world of luxury.
Working with Synthesis in mind, the brand has created a collection: clothing that shares a utopian utility. The strength yet wistful nature of women is explored through the disposition of high-end textiles and complex craftsmanship layered onto tones inspired by earth. Intertwined in this brand’s DNA is a woman’s landscape, associated with utopia, freedom, strength, solidarity, and intrinsically death and rebirth.
Il direttore artistico di Byblos, Manuel Facchini, disegna una collezione ispirata al senso profondo della vita, il DNA, da cui prende forma ogni essere vivente.
Un senso di movimento ed energia che riflette la Natura dinamica del DNA e del mondo naturale, la cui ricchezza e complessità sono rappresentati da una vasta gamma di colori, motivi e materiali che evidenziano l’importanza dell’inclusività e della diversità nella natura, così come nella nostra società.
La collezione Byblos FW23 è un potente richiamo alla Bellezza e alla Meraviglia del mondo naturale e una celebrazione delle numerose differenti forme che la vita può assumere cosi come della sua perfezione, indipendentemente dalla forma o colore che assume.
Enfatizzando la spirale del DNA della collezione, Byblos trasmette un senso di vivacità e dinamismo anche attraverso un’ampia gamma di colori: dal verde al giallo, passando dal fuxia al rosso scarlatto e precipitando nel profondo black rock.
Per la stagione FW23, il Byblos World si snoda a spirale, celebrando l’incantevole diversità che rende unico ogni essere umano.
Motivi sinuosi, ispirati alla doppia elica del DNA, si intrecciano perfettamente con le curve del corpo, accarezzandole e accentuando la personalità esplosiva del Brand: innovazione eco-high-tech, dettagli rock in una visione precisa e contemporanea.
Cappotti cocoon oversize in morbido mohair dai colori esplosivi si alternano a caban piumini double-face. Blazer sartoriali dai tagli rigorosi, evidenziati da spalle ampie ma irreprensibili nella loro geometria grafica. Pantaloni genderless che mescolano i cromosomi X e Y, creando un equilibrio fluido, audace, senza legami e senza confini.
L’iconica “Infinity” BRA-BELT in ecopelle spessorata, dalla forma elicoidale che richiama il simbolo dell’infinito, avvolge e protegge delicatamente la vita o il seno.
Abiti a spirale che si sfilacciano organicamente sulle spalle creando bretelle inedite, simbolo dei cromosomi, mentre in vita si sciolgono in impalpabili pieghe organiche, plastica espressione di telomeri inossidabili. Motivi ad elica si insinuano asimmetrici negli abiti da cocktail in crêpe, sottolineati da micro incrostazioni di strass ton sur ton
Il décolleté si avvolge in un vortice elicoidale a spirale, rivelando e celando, al tempo stesso.
Ricami, rigorosamente made in Italy, sottolineano con vinili e strass gli intrecci e le forme tipiche dei cromosomi in una spirale inesorabile che avvolge e protegge come un’armatura micro abiti, coprispalle e top.
Fluidi cady di viscosa, morbidi fresco di lana, impalpabili mohair contrastano con cotoni armaturati, double di lana e tessuti tecnici.
Daywear in cotone intrecciato per cargo oversize multi-tasche (e multi-tasking) con doppio fondo (contenuto vertiginosamente da una zip, o super-over aperte “a delta” al fondo, regolabile, a seconda delle necessità) e minigonne “inside out” esibiscono la mezza elica laterale, caratteristico tratto geneticamente creato nella Collezione.
La massima espressione della collezione Byblos “DNA” è rappresentata dai chokers a semi-spirale genderless insieme a maxi e mini orecchini in ottone rodiato, studiati attraverso il design computazionale con programmi di architettura parametrica. Una tecnologia avanzata che permette di realizzare creazioni estremamente complesse e dettagli estremamente miniaturizzati, che sono generalmente utilizzati nell’architettura 3D e creati attraverso l’utilizzo di stampe 3D di ultima generazione, prive di punti di saldatura che ne contaminerebbero la pulizia estetica: così come in Natura, in Byblos.
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