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Collezioni Donna

Wiederhoeft / SS23 Collection

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RUN OF SHOW

We examine childlike joy and naïve creativity. The very human experience of experiencing crushing heartbreak and ecstatic joy simultaneously. The magical wonder of seeing the first inspiration. The temptation of a bad idea. The joy and fragility of the single bright idea.

Look 1 Red Girl. Kelis wears oversized hoodie in red satin with hand-embroidered castle motif. Corset in red parquet silk jacquard, worn with tonal red tulle skirt and gold locket necklace.

Look 2 Pink & Green Girl. Larissa wears cropped corset in pea-green faille with hand-embroidered pink bugle bead bow. Over sized bow-back shirt in green tulle with faille edging. Skirt in fuchsia and green silk jacquard with parquet motif.

Look 3 The Herald. Veronika wears open-backed mini Juno dress with in lollipop red crepe back satin. Thigh-high socks and matching gloves with hand-embroidered red feathers, sequin, and crystal parquet moitf. Robin hood headpiece and feather in red tulle-wrapped wire.

Look 4 The Gate. Malik wears long severe-fit dress, fully hand embroidered with gunmetal and gold metal bugle beads, and fringed ball chain, in “castle gate” woven parquet motif. Snood and thong in fully hand-embroidered gold metal bugle beads, with gold cherub and pearl rings.

Look 5 The Princess. Coral wears wasp corset and princess skirt in fuchsia recycled satin. Harness in polished silver chain with fuchsia crystals, and hand-embroidered tulle cape with chain motif.

Look 6 The Bishop. Amira wears long hooded robe in black metallic moiré with heavy gold chain closure. Sleeveless column mini dress, gloves and hood in fully hand-embroidered gold bugle beads.

Look 7 The Knight. Aquaria wears codpiece dress with fully hand-embroidered “suit of armor” motifs – with mauve metallic bugle beads, fuchsia crystals, mirrored stones, and shades of cut beads. Fingerless gloves in black tulle, and long chain belt in silver pewter.

Look 8 The Horsegirl. Somalia wears gold chainmail dress with godet tulle skirt in shades of crimson, fuchsia, yellow plum, pea green, violet, and persimmon. Thong in gold hand-embroidered sequins and cut beads, with gold chain bracelet and earrings.

Look 9 The Prince. Carmen wears corset in orange tulle with satin details. Macramé skirt in orange silk charmeuse, woven with gold ball chain and adorned with silk moiré ribbons. Fingerless gloves in orange tulle, worn with “framed” necklace, earrings and bracelet with topaz-colored crystals in gold settings.

Look 10 The Sorceress. Rima wears purple metallic moiré hoodie with black ostrich feather lining. Purple metallic moiré sleeveless column dress with jet crystal fringe diamond embroidery, and matching cropped riding jacket. Fingerless gloves in purple tulle, with silver fingertip jewelry, and snood in black glass bugle beads.

Look 11 The Witch. Ivy wears tulle cutout bodysuit, fully hand-embroidered with 200 black baroque freshwater pearls, each adorned with a silk moiré ribbon bow. Thong in black satin with hand-embroidered iridescent cut beads. Trailing ribbon cloak in pearlescent ghost organza, with matching baroque pearl ring and earrings.

Look 12 The Plague. Michael wears green metallic dress, hand-embroidered with black heron in iridescent cut beads and feathers. Neck corset in black metallic moiré and black fingerless gloves in sequin-embroidered tulle.

Look 13 The Treasure Chest. Fernando wears treasure chest coat, in fully hand-embroidered satin with oversized jewelry motifs, and bright green marabou feather lining. Fuchsia bow mini top and skirt with flounced tulle sprays. Matching gloves in bright green marabou, with gems coin purse.

Look 14 The Rose Garden. Nora wears dropped-waist fancy dress with bodice in hand-embroidered black sequins and beads, and skirt in black metallic moiré. Corset in purple metallic moiré, and coat in green metallic moiré, with swagged sequin veil and black moiré rose appliqués. Horned headpiece in black tulle with wrapped wire architecture. Rose bouquet in recycled satin with hand embroidered beads and crystals.

Look 15 The Dungeon. Teddy wears wasp corset in black double-faced silk satin, with gunmetal-plated pewter chainmail skirt. Snood in fully hand-embroidered metal bugle beads, with gunmetal and crystal fingertip rings.

Look 16 The Lady in Waiting. Sarah wears dropped-waist fancy dress with bodice in hand-embroidered parquet pattern and skirt in chartreuse double-faced silk satin. Hennin veiled headpiece in fuchsia tulle and wire understructure. Long fingerless gloves in fuchsia tulle, with gold and pearl fingertip rings and gold chain skirt

Look 17 The Wizard. Mido wears sleeveless men’s-fit column dress in black double-faced silk satin, with tulle sprays and silver corsetry grommet and ring details with ribbon ties.

Look 18 The Executioner. Yerim wears mini dress and oversized bow in red recycled satin, with crystal corset motif and hand-embroidered feather and paillette bodice and skirt. Hooded bodysuit and opera mask in fully embroidered black glass bugle beads.

Look 19 Mother. Silvia wears bow mini skirt and top, constructed from hand-embroidered gold bugle bead bows, with sprays of metallic gold silk tulle.

Look 20 The Court Painter. Lucy wears bow-shoulder corset and forked skirt in bright green silk mikado, with wrought iron window inspired embroidery hand-embroidered with green bugle beads, tweed yarns; and sequins, all edged with corsetry lacing. Snood in fuchsia tulle with hand-embroidered bugle bead bow motif.

Look 21 Curtain Call. Bruna wears sleeveless column dress fully-embroidered with Looney-Tunes spotlight embroidery in pointillist-style beading, with rose bouquet in beaded satin. Gloves and opera mask in hand-embroidered net with mirrored plexiglass mosaic.

Look 22 specter 2. Zach wears flounced bubble dress in black silk mikado, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.

Look 23 Specter 2. Leslie wears nightgown dress with ribbon ties in black silk chiffon, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.

Look 24 specter 3. Zeke wears Edwardian gown in black recycled faille, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.

Look 25 specter 4. Tara wears open-backed Juno dress in black crepe back satin, with crystal embroidered fingerless gloves.

Look 26 The Bright Idea. Danielle wears corseted gown with sleeves and skirt in riveted steel wrapped with gold satin, draped with gold ghost organza.

—-

CREDITS
Makeup: Allie Smith with skincare provided by Tula
Hair: Sean Bennett with hair provided by Aqua Extensions
Nails: Holly Falcone
Movement Direction: Austin Goodwin
Production and Scenery: Eyesight Group
Shoes: Syro
Public Relations: Lindsey Media
Models: Kelis Robinson, Larissa Leung, Veronika Villim, Malik Brand, Coral, Amira Pinheiro, Aquaria, Somalia Knight, Carmen Garcia, Rima Naufal, Ivy Stewart, Michael Phillips, Fernando Casablancas, Nora Senkal, Teddy Quinlivan, Sarah Abney, Mido Elghazawi, Yerim, Silvia Ranguelova, Lucy Sanchez, Bruna Ludtke, Leslie Andrea Williams, Tara Langdon, Zeke Lindsay, Zachary Burrows, Danielle Mareka

Generously Sponsored by Nemacolin

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Collezioni Donna

Chanel Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture Collection

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The starting point of the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection is Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. It is the place where Virginie Viard took Xavier Veilhan at the very beginning of their work, and which includes a collection of objects, sculptures, drawings representing lions, does, stags, birds and camels. “For his third participation, I asked him to reinterpret the apartment’s bestiary and incorporate his own,” she says. “The whole embroidery universe of the collection is turned towards the animal world.”

Embroidered on short tweed suits and coat dresses, kittens, corgis, rabbits and swallows share the limelight with the does, stags or camellias emblematic of the House.
As if on a village square, a festive parade is being prepared and sets off. Eleven monumental animals made of wood, cardboard and paper created by Xavier Veilhan hide models, and then open to let them escape. “I like it when the marvellous bursts forth and the course of events is interrupted,” she continues.

The CHANEL suit borrows its codes from the female uniforms of parades and spectacles. Top hat, bow tie, white gloves, laced boots, satin cape, pleated skirt, jackets double-breasted or with tails, tuxedo shirt, sequins, short shorts, petticoats: it is in the poetry of majorettes that Virginie Viard also finds her inspiration.

Dresses and jumpsuits all in lightness and refinement, superpositions, transparencies, flounces, pleats, fine straps and repainted laces, are crafted in silk tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crepe and chantilly lace.

And as in every beautiful story, the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection, with its fairy parade, closes with the bride in a dress embroidered with swallows.§

Photo Credits: Copyright CHANEL

#CHANELHauteCouture

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Collezioni Donna

Phaeonia Spring-Summer 2023 “Art-Chitecture”

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Estasi architettonica. Segreti di luce. Vibrazioni materiche. Giochi di ombre. Una femminilità che è come un flash negli occhi, colpisce nel rendere tutto più nitido, toglie gli orpelli per svelare l’essenza di una sensualità couture. Con un battito artistico che scorre sottopelle. Sempre.

Minimal rich. Rigorosamente made in Italy. Con tessuti e lavorazioni couture. Dal fit rinnovato sempre più pensato per essere bodycentrico partendo proprio dalla stagione spring summer 2023. Phaeonia plasma la camicia, diventa una tela bianca di un pittore su cui iniziare innesti artigianali per siglare la nascita di una nuova specie. Una magnifica ossessione per creare una collisione di passioni. Strutturato come il sogno di un architetto, morbido come un velo soffiato dal vento. Maschile e femminile. Cotoni preziosi dalla grammatura alleggerita e reti con applicazioni di paillette. Sete impalpabili e fiocchi da indossare in più modi, un vero inno alla libertà.

Drappeggi per dare un’idea di quella tridimensionalità propria dell’arte, emettendo vibrazioni tra chiaro e scuro. Forme e luce creano movimenti ispirati ad una dimensione scultorea. Ricami esclusivi sulle balze nere, trasparenze ricercate per far aumentare mistero e passione. Un pattern geometrico con un tessuto stampa optical muta sapientemente mentre si muove lungo il corpo, creando una suggestione cinetica, come un’onda estetica. Inizia un brivido di seduzione con gli oblò aperti dalle coulisse, con quell’alternanza armoniosa tra pieni e vuoti come un’architettura da studiare. Creano più livelli sulla superficie, permettono di indossare la camicia in più versioni senza seguire regole. E la personalità di chi indossa diventa l’ingrediente magico.

Una speciale capsule è pronta a vestire la sera. Con il know how prezioso che arriva dall’alta moda. Delicate paillette, reti con un touch impalpabile. Bianco. Nero. Rigorosamente no size, nessuna taglia predefinita. Per cedere a una tentazione visiva.

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Collezioni Donna

Juana Martín returns to the Paris Haute Couture Week

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During her second fashion show within the official Parisian calendar, the designer will be presenting her “Orígenes” collection, an ode to her Spanish and flamenco roots.

After her debut in July 2022 with the “Andalucía” collection, Juana Martín returns this January 26th to the official calendar of the Paris Haute Couture Week with “Orígenes”, a proposal that reflects the beginnings of her work in fabrics and prints, and offers a result true to her flamenco style, with a more avant-garde touch.

Inspired by her summers in Málaga, a place that has seen many of her creative processes, Juana Martín returns to this city to create “Orígenes”. The blue of its beaches, its people and the harmony of its land are embodied in this collection that, according to the designer’s words, “is designed for an elegant and transgressive woman, who dares to take another step towards evolution and personal development”.

This collection shows the essence of Juana Martín’s designs, both in the color palette based on black and white tones, as well as in the use of volumes, embroideries, ruffles and of course, polka dots. The fabric innovation and the abundant presence of crystals stand out in this collection, embroidered crystals and netted crystals, create meshes that cover the body of the sensual, daring and provocative woman.

Also, in the “Orígenes” fashion show we will be seeing accessories such as the Christian Louboutin shoes, Nadia Chellaoui bags and Plata Pura goldsmith work. A mixture of high-end firms have come together with a contemporary and an avant-garde point of view.

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