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MM6 Maison Margiela – Spring-Summer2023

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For Spring-Summer 2023, MM6 Maison Margiela invites you into the sacred space of the rehearsal – into the process behind the performance. Sat on its main stage, you see the Auditorium di Milano Fondazione Cariplo from the same vantage point as our dancers, limbering up for a run-through of Igor Stravinsky’s seismic ballet – an avant-garde masterpiece to this very day – The Rite of Spring. In the stalls, the 60-strong ensemble of the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano, conducted by Wladimir Schall, makes its final tunings before
the dress rehearsal begins.

Clothes are crafted with vigorous, balletic movement in mind. Off-shoulder jersey bodies in cream, blush and teal effortlessly shift with the wearer’s body ; ribbed knit boleros in white cotton contour frame the décolleté, while bunched-up mohair cosies warm the joints. The sleeves of scoop-necked jumpers are attached in reverse, allowing for arms to be thrown skywards into the fifth position with ease.

Vests are scaled up and layered as airy minidresses, and MM6 Salomon Adv Skin 5 running vest, a product of this season’s continued collaboration with the French outdoor sports brand, first introduced for Autumn-Winter 2022, feature throughout – handy for whenever water breaks call. Elsewhere, the brand’s signature sole tooling is used for thigh-high boots with pointes uppers, available in blush and black.

A jaunty playfulness informs how pieces are constructed and worn – shrunken spaghetti-strap tops become cummerbunds that cinch the waists of boxy satin coats, and knitted camisole dresses are tugged and folded into svelte, high-waisted skirts. The five-zip jacket with sharply-slanted cap sleeves is reimagined as a ballet dancer’s leotard in polished black calfskin.

The mottled scuffs of worn-in ballet shoes inform the abrasions that constitute this season’s keystone graphic motif. Speckled across bleached denim maxi skirts, roomy mohair knits and stretch jersey tops, they have a dual function – they simultaneously serve as tattered embellishments while offering ventilation in stifling summer heat. The ivory duchesse satin used for notch-lapel coats and wide-leg jeans is dirt-washed, dulling its sheen, and the dye treatments of sky blue and rose jersey slips are marbled and streaked, a homage to pieces from one of the Maison’s most emblematic collections.

Silhouettes are anchored by a footwear range that – expectedly – takes the ballet shoe as its point of departure. Its square-toed silhouette translates to mules in blush satin and black calfskin; the ‘6’ heel ankle boot in tan leather; open-toed, thigh-high sock boots in aquamarine, fuchsia and taupe jersey; and even a crossbody mini-bag that mimics a folded-over pump. A full range of Japanese bags – including the classic origami-inspired form, the oval-bottomed mini-tote, the long-handled accordion silhouette and a new shoulder bag – return in the season’s primary palette, and this season’s jewellery draws inspiration from hand-knotted and studded pieces discovered in the archive.

As ever with MM6 Maison Margiela, this is a collection that reiterates the brand’s core philosophy – rather than impose how they should be worn, these are clothes to be lived in as you please. Whether for running, dancing or lounging, these garments are not ready to wear – they are ready when worn.

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LENA ERZIAK Collection couture spring summer 2023 Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week

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Lena Erziak turns the spotlight on the stars of Hollywood. Inspired by the golden age of cinema, the designer takes her inspiration from an era where couture has never been more in tune with its contemporaries. Like the Hollywood stars, Lena Erziak presents a spectacular luxuriant collection. Without nostalgia, Lena reinvents glamour by adding a very personal and modern vision.

Close-up on sensual materials: the eye glides gently over the silk taffeta. Travelling: we discover daring and bewitching accessories, with bold colors, red, black, light blue and pink. Made of silk satin soaked in soy milk, large rooster feathers and handmade pleats in the brand’s Parisian atelier, the collection is designed like a powerful and fearless sequence shot; Lena Erziak shines on camera. That’s a wrap! With intelligence as much as elegance, Lena takes us in front of the white screen of her fantasies for a movie of beauty and dreams…

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FOVARI Couture collection spring summer 2023 « Névé » – Haute couture Paris Fashion Week

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This daring new collection pays homage to the Himalayas. Masterful draping mimics the rolling slopes of mountaintops. Custom made zippers and artful ropes take their inspiration from trekking equipment. And duchess satin in snow white, sky blue, and dark noir bring the serene colors of Mount Everest to the Parisian runway.

Powerful storytelling isn’t the only signature feature of this collection. “Our pieces are built to be timeless, both in fashion & function,” says founder Yara Shoemaker. “We merge the latest innovation in digital technology with handmade craftsmanship to create garments that are heirlooms, timeless in their aesthetic and lifespan.” Fovari has struck a cultural chord, proving that the future of women’s fashion is innovative, ethical, and feminine.

Fovari, is re-inventing couture for the modern woman. Founded in 2021 by designer Yara Shoemaker, Fovari is a sustainably-focused brand. With highly collectible pieces that embody the essence of femininity, Fovari is paving the way for ethical luxury fashion.

PHOTO CREDIT: @FOVARI photos collection couture printemps été spring summer 2023 haute couture Paris Fashion Week 

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Alexander McQUEEN SS23 womenswear

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This collection is about searching for humanity and human connection. The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness. Our clothes are designed to empower. They are stripped back, dissected and focused on cut, drape and silhouette. We also looked at the work of Hieronymus Bosch, at once dark and beautiful.”
Sarah Burton, Creative Director

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