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Collezioni Donna

Moschino Autunno/Inverno 20-21

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Dalle stravaganze dorate di Maria Antonietta ai colori vivaci di Tokyo, la nuova collezione di Jeremy Scott per Moschino è un’esplosione di fantasia e divertimento con un tocco di ironia.

Immaginate la regina di Francia in versione cosplay.

Oppure, in alternativa, pensate ad un’Anime Antoinette, come la definisce Scott, che esce da uno schermo piatto nel 2020, viaggia a ritroso nel tempo e vi riceve nella sua corte a Versailles.

In questa storia brucia un fuoco insurrezionale; quando l’élite governa con ignoranza e decadenza, le ribellioni si agitano. È qui che nasce il paradosso di Scott: la collezione è costruita sull’edonismo, ma è un divertissement dai denti affilatissimi.

La palette è ricca di iper-saturazioni e toni pastello glassati.

Le forme sono esagerate.

Il surreale si ricopre di zucchero.

Abiti farthingale e pannier si trasformano in nuove silhouette con felpe ibride o biker jacket.

Il denim è decorato con fili d’oro; gli stessi ricami appaiono sotto forma di cherubini sugli orli della gonna o sui revers in pelle. I profili arricciati aggiungono una nota spensierata, mentre il broccato jacquard dai toni arcobaleno rievoca una nostalgia più recente.

I motivi Toile de Jouy sono reinventati con personaggi anime.

Come una ciliegina sulla torta, gli abiti da sera finali di Scott — ispirati alle torte a strati – sono una riflessione ironica sulla famosa, presunta citazione di Maria Antoinetta.

Indipendentemente dal fatto che la regina abbia esclamato “Qu’ils mangent de la brioche”, gli abiti da cocktail effetto pasticceria diventano un commento scaltro e sottile sullo spessore di alcune persone al potere.

Eppure, naturalmente, nella storia di Moschino, la satira e la sovversione assumono sempre i contorni dell’humor e della teatralità.

Hair Styling by: Paul Hanlon using ghd Italy
Make-up by: Makeup by Tom Pecheux at Calliste Agency
Makeup provided by @MACcosmetics @MACcosmeticsItalia
Nails by: Essie
Stylist: Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele
Music: Michel Gaubert
Casting Director: Samuel Ellis Scheinman
Production: Random Production

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Collezioni Donna

Autumn-Winter 2020 Collection #D25

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The low slung, skinny and hiked high silhouettes mixed with the sexiness and attitude of Dsquared2 25 years ago are redefined for 2020 to give new spirit to the brand Dean and Dan Caten founded.

lconic pieces from the archive are redesigned by playing with proportions, super tight and shrunken or oversize, with a tactile washed look and feel in warm, earthy tones. Every look appears as if individually treated with a lived-in soul. The pieces Dsquared2 made its own remain pure to the brand’s roots, with added contemporary finish; a Montgomery coat is cropped high, a mini bustier dress in soft, pale baby blue mohair, and the underwear V-front jeans twisted and wrinkled on the legs over hidden 10cm high platform heeled men’s square-toe biker boots. Masculinity is blurred with femininity through the slightly exposed midriffs, cropped shirt sleeves, and jewelry that dangles with colored crystal rock pendants or leather feathers.

Cardigan coats, vests, in ribbed silk, fuzzy mohair and cashmere are layered one over the other in sensual styling, and the check shirt-a staple of the Dsquared2 wardrobe-in linen for winter has a worn-in finish. Thenatural shades of the line-up connect to nature outdoors, a piace where Dsquared2 designed its fashion to play in for a quarter of a century. Canadian country wilderness is seen in lumberjack checked coats and pants fringed on their sides. Mountain blanket red stripes are in bandeau style miniskirts and a poncho. Shearling coats are draped long around denim and Western boots. Hammered metal medallions and suede fringing embellish half-moon shaped bags with large buckles or metal ring handles.

Pumped up long parkas are worn over a men’s look that appears from anime, contrasting in cartoon-like sizes over clinging rubber high neck, long sleeve tops, wrinkled leather pants and mini cropped knitted vests. Women’s waist grazing raw cut jackets have collars decked with a flourish of eco fur, super low waist leather shorts. Oversized hanging military style pockets are built onto the classic Dsquared2 cotton canvas pant. Jeans, Dsquared2 DNA, are presented long, bleached on the thighs and wrinkled on the calf; or as a pair with two waists, one dropped to the hip, button fly open to reveal the front zip and button of another, looped in a leather belt with oversized gem stone buckle.

The collection reveals its heart in the phrase ‘love is•••‘, taken from a comic strip by cartoonist Kim Casali which was inspired by a series of love notes she drew for her future husband. A cherished motif from their childhood, Dean and Dan put the short statement in its curled lettering in jacquard knits, with a view that two simple words capture the sentiment the world needs right now.

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Collezioni Donna

Chanel – Spring-summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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I was thinking about actresses at the photocall, on the red carpet, that moment when they’re being called to by the photographers: their faces a little distracted, their attitude a little out of sync with the outfits they’re wearing. And then there are the fans waiting for them behind the barriers, this very lively side to cinema that happens beyond cinema, that’s what I like,” explains Virginie Viard,This collection is a tribute to the muses of the House. Some of them are far away, it’s been a long time since we saw them. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld dressed so many actresses in films and in real life. I was thinking about them who make us dream so much. But without wanting to replicate. Without falling into a vintage citation. I wanted it to be very joyful, colourful, and very vibrant too.

So, alongside the ecru and black tweed suits, are jeans in fluorescent colours, fluid dresses and t-shirts printed with the letters of CHANEL like neon-lights, pale pink capri pants, long dresses printed with little flowers in black and white, or in an ultra-fine tweed, outfits embroidered with sequins, bermuda short suits and layers of asymmetry…

The silhouettes, staged in the collection press kit by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, are embodied by Rianne Van Rompaey, Mica Argañaraz and Louise de Chevigny, each one of them in four recurring cinematic situations: on the telephone, looking out of the window, sitting on a bed or walking down the street, just like scenes from a film. An evocation of the Nouvelle Vague, of Italian cinema and of Hollywood. “Because the world of Chanel evokes so many images, a whole unconscious that’s linked to cinema,” concludes Virginie Viard.

#CHANELSpringSummer

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Collezioni Donna

Rodarte Practical Magic SS 2021 Collection

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Fondato a Los Angeles nel 2005 da Kate e Laura Mulleavy, Rodarte si distingue per il modo romantico e concettuale con cui si avvicina all’ispirazione, alla narrazione. Vedere il mondo attraverso il paesaggio, l’arte, il cinema, la poesia, la cultura e la musica.

Al centro dell’approccio unico di Kate e Laura alla moda, c’è la loro ricerca dell’innovazione attraverso la narrazione.
La Collezione SS 2021 si ispira agli anni ’40 con fiori, sete e volant ariosi per una collezione eterea.

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