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Assembly – FW 20 Collection

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This concept collection was constructed of symbolic elements. Rather than looking to fabric for solutions, this season’s materials themselves were questioned and the creative process itself reworked. As opposed to factory production pieces, the assortment consists mainly of individual statements, handmade solely by the designer and his assistant, each one-of-kind and laborious to produce. Requiring new approaches to solve

traditional issues, the garments each represent aspects of what is required in our modern social climate; adaptability, self-preservation and willingness.

The models take turns drawing each other as a physical gesture of both introspection and observation. Representing the ways in which we absorb, interpret and compare our personal psychologies to each other, weaving our own individual contexts.

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1     Destroyed shibori denim jacket and wrap skirt
2 Strapless floor-length formal evening dress with leg opening. Deconstructed solely from four deadstock black tuxedo jackets and trousers. Testosterone is vital to a person’s overall health and well-being. Low levels of testosterone can affect body composition unfavorably
3   Hand-pieced Whiting & Davis metal chainmail twist top, wide leg pant, miniskirt and clutch with digital print. Made of 100% metal allowing endless lifespan and material repurposing opportunity. The invention of battle armor made of chainmail is commonly credited to the Celts, but there are examples of Etruscan origin dating from the 4th century BCE.
4   Upcycled vegan leather snap skirt and cropped simple pant layered with chartreuse rayon shell dress
5   Draped shoulder knotted wrap top with pleated peplum circle skirt and structured torsolette. Tailored from five deadstock clear raincoats. Avoiding winter’s isolation, in a prepared manner, is primary to maintaining a positive mood through the colder months.
6  Fitted hourglass mini collaged from over three-hundred recycled woven patches in mixed colors. According to internet sources, “above the knee dress lengths are short enough to be flirty, but still long enough to be appropriate for most events.
7  Traditional ankle length cocktail dress with center back opening. Sewn from two-hundred forty repurposed eye masks. Eating foods rich in tryptophan will raise the body’s serotonin levels, necessary to produce melatonin
8   Apron strap ruffled peplum top with coordinating straight leg pant with raw edge construction. Pieced and draped from twelve vintage plaid flannel buttonup shirts. Recent public surveys list “getting to be 100% yourself” as a top incentive for not leaving the house.
9   Unisex tuxedo with poplin bib shirt layered with nylon shell dress
10 Chainmail miniskirt with digital print, silk cotton tuxedo shirt, repurposed polarfleece hazard orange maxicoat
11   Deadstock fine stripe cotton snap coat and vietnam pant
12  Deadstock nylon oversized trench coat
13   Leather chore coat and paneled mniskirt with cotton one-sleeve blouse
14  Unisex Denim Jacket and straight leg 5 pocket jean
15  Repurposed hazard orange polarfleece maxi coat with cotton rib cutout dress

PHOTO CREDIT: SORAYA ZAMAN

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Chanel – Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-To-Wear Collection

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Deauville is where everything started for the House. 1912, the creation of her hat shop and then very quickly the first clothes with their visionary, radical style. It’s where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel. This story is very close to my heart,” confides Virginie Viard. On the racecourse, on the seaside, at the gaming table, in restaurants and palaces, on the “Planches” boardwalk: everything is about elegance and self-staging.

For this collection, we recreated the Deauville boardwalk, she adds. Giant screens on which long, romantic silhouettes stroll in the light from dawn to dusk.” Shrouded in mystery, the models walk along the beach. The 1920s and 70s cross paths and intertwine.

Androgynous and cinematic, the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard draws its femininity from Gabrielle Chanel’s own wardrobe and its masculinity from the subtle elegance of winter sojourns by the sea. Broad-shouldered peacoats and long dressing-gown-style belted coats are worn over tweed suits – box-pleated skirts, culottes or cropped trousers –, drop-front trousers or trousers with tabs at the back.


Chunky sailor sweaters and knits featuring the landscapes of Deauville alternate with silk blouses with middy collars, herringbone prints, low-cut tops with flounces, jumpsuits and negligees whose delicacy evokes gentle waves breaking and a soft wind blowing.

The palette takes its vibrant or pastel shades of pink, mauve, orange and pale blue from the ever-changing colours of the Deauville sky, along with brown and gold lamé. 35mm film and cinema tickets: prints refer to the town’s connection with the 7th art, its American Film Festival and Claude Lelouch’s A Man and a Woman, to which Inez and Vinoodh’s film opening the show pays tribute.

The silhouette of David Bowie, the magnetism of film stars walking on the sand, like Anouk Aimée, a great friend of Gabrielle Chanel… this collection pays homage to these familiar figures.”

The iconic bags are omnipresent, as are the pastel-hued wide-brimmed hats, colourful silk scarves, heeled knee-high boots and thigh-high boots in sheepskin, a direct nod to Anouk Aimée’s coat in A Man and a Woman.

It’s a very warm collection, with layers of materials, colours and volumes. It pays tribute to Deauville, the legendary place where Gabrielle Chanel’s destiny changed forever.”

Copyright CHANEL

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Paloma Wool presents their Autumn-Winter 2024 Collection

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The collection follows spontaneous effortlessness with further emphasis on a defined silhouette. From the iconic graphic knitwear to the brand’s elevated streetwear with technical materials; paloma wool’s collection exudes a sense of sophistication and versatility. Velvet pieces imbue femininity and elevate the overall aesthetic with a touch of luxury, while multiposition pieces offer various styling options. The inclusion of silk garments facilitates effortless layering, and argyle-printed knitwear sets a distinctive tone throughout the collection.

The show was led by a performance directed by Carlota Guerrero, in which a group of women carried out an experimental pétanque game, and styled by Emilie Kareh.

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ALEXIS MABILLE FW 2024 – PARIS FASHION WEEK

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Society
1. Long strapless sheath dress in brick-red crepe with a draped décolleté.

2. Billowy shirtdress in blood-red crepe.

3. Long wrap dress in pinky-red crepe with bow-belt.

4. Long wrap dress in red crepe with long slit sleeves, waist with brandenburgs appliqués.

5. Long tailored dress in red silk piqué, waist and shoulders with brandenburgs appliqués.

6. Evening shirtdress in raspberry silk piqué with flounced skirt.

7. Shirt-gown in raspberry silk piqué, with fixed inverted pleats at the waist.

8. Long corolla shirtdress in black radzimir, shoulders inlaid with matching lace, sleeve belt.

9. Trapeze dress in black silk piqué and satin, fastened by ties in the back.

10. Long, twirling sheath dress with asymmetrical scarf neckline crafted from black crepe.

11. Black crepe batwing jumpsuit with brandeburgs belt.

12. Long jacket-dress in navy blue crepe with satin facings and buttons.

13. Long shirtdress crafted from off-white silk faille and inlaid with Lyon lace, satin belt.

14. Shirtdress with batwing sleeves and corolla skirt crafted from champagne silk piqué and satin, matching knotted belt.

15. Long gown in champagne silk piqué, with a matching satin bow-neckline and panel.

16. Grand slip dress in nude radzimir with brandenburgs appliqués.

17. Long asymmetrical dress crafted from flesh-colored jersey satin, with front-and-back satin panels and a split shirt sleeve.

18. Long shirtdress in blush-colored crepe with split cape-sleeves, matching satin belt.

19. Long square shirtdress in peach-colored crepe with stitched satin collar.

20. Long corolla boat neck dress crafted from pale pink silk piqué, with satin kimono belt.

21. Long bustier dress in pale pink silk piqué, with a crepe scarf hold by brandenburgs.

CREDITS
Photo
Marcel Nestler

Hair & Make-up
Beautick

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