La prima collezione di Maisie Wilen si ispira alla ginnastica ritmica e alla robotica. Linee ergonomiche, fluide ed elegante fluidità emergono dalla massima rigidità e sistemi calcolati. Trame e stampe ricche vengono applicate a sagome familiari, giocose ma sexy. L’inclusione della linea di magliette, felpe e pantaloni della tuta è un cenno diretto all’influenza di Yeezy ma assume un’identità unica con una grande grafica floccata.
Photo Credit: Sam Massey
Maisie Wilen, a contemporary women’s fashion label by Maisie Schloss is now available at maisiewilen.com.
Collezione Marni Resort 2020
I belli e i ribelli, in pace e in conflitto. El pueblo e la femme, in tenzone amorosa per la seduzione, con una certa severità.
Connettere gli opposti in oggetti inaspettati per suggerire atteggiamenti imprevisti.
La precisione vista da un punto di vista femminile, e viceversa.
L’ordine toccato da un disturbo seduttivo, la seduzione ordinata.
Le uniformi diventano sinuose, le armature diventano fluide. Le sahariane sono decostruite da aperture abbottonate strategicamente che consentono di rimontarle in direzioni impreviste. Cinture elastiche, anatomiche quanto difensive, stringono la vita di giacche marziali, tuniche e camicie militari. Gli abiti si modellano sul corpo, drappeggi angolari sono incollati su vestiti puri come ricordi ultra femminili di altri tempi e silhouette. I costumi da bagno fungono da bustier improvvisati.
Il conflitto pacifico tra il pudico e il militante continua con le stampe mimetiche che sono in effetti motivi floreali. Giungle di foglie brulicano su abiti.
Una gamma seducente di sete, nylon, sablè, ramiè, crepe de chine, pelli plongé.
Borse Trunk colorate, stivali militari, pump dai bordi grezzi accessoriano il conflitto.
La bellezza come atto belligerante.
Rêveries Enivrées – LYSANDRE G. L SS 2020
For Spring/Summer collection 2020, LYSANDRE G. L plunges us into a multifaceted dreamworld. It is a voyage that spans three different universes, each one telling their own tale.
The collection opens with lunar silhouettes, highlights of cold colour with metallic finishes to announce the reverie. Brighter and warmer hues then follow, marking the duality between day and night. Garments worked with transparent materials and superposed fabrics evoke an ethereal lightness of dreams themselves.
Beading and sequins –LYSANDRE G. L’s signature identity – are used to enhance the noble materials and floaty dresses.
LYSANDRE G. L will presente a collection of embroidery bags – Fantasy Clutch 106 – illustrated by the designer and mixing the European and Chinese cultures, both so dear to her heart.
For this collection, LYSANDRE G. L collaborated with painter Danhôo to create five models of exclusive handbags – Matchbox.
Chow Tai Fook’s jewellery collection with a feather theme marries itself perfectly with the aerial universe of the collection.
LYSANDRE G. L is a Parisian brand created in 2016 by M. G. Lenoir, of Studio Berçot, had for many years collaborated with Olympia Le Tan before creating her own line.
LYSANDRE G. L mixes modernity with tradition, the designer’s technical knowledge is always valorised by the creative cuts and symbolic use of colour in each collection. LYSANDRE G. L plays the role of storyteller throughout each of their collections, whether it is clothing or bags, each piece is a fragment of this created universe, a part of the ever noteworthy “prêt-à-couture” vehicle that carries the collections.
Instagram : @lysandre.g.l
Website : www.lysandregl.com
Chanel SS 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection
A youthful breeze of liberty blows across the rooftops of Paris. Or more precisely those installed in the nave of the Grand Palais for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show. Roofs so typical of the fashion capital and the rue Cambon with their zinc surfaces, walkways, chimney pots and windows opening onto the sky.
“The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague. I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs. I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” says Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of the Fashion collections.
Today, the ethereal allure is dancing. Accessorised with sandals that come with jewelled or strass-embellished straps or are flat and two-tone, and occasionally little hats, the silhouette is fluid and light. The materials are supple and hinder no movements. For both day and night, the collection plays with the simplicity and balance of volume. Jackets with flounced collars and cuffs and short skirts reinterpret the tweed suit. Capri pants and denim jackets with ruffles also join the dance. Very pure little white coats finished with braid, are worn with voluminous skirts and tops in black and white tweed. The straight-cut masculine tweed jacket is revisited, transformed into playsuits, jumpsuits or a little dress with a flared skirt. Long coats come in tweed or wool crêpe while a striped top and a carelessly knotted shirt add masculine-feminine accents.
Satin, silk faille and taffetas carry the short, wraparound or asymmetric skirts, always worn high on the waist: petticoated, or not, with organza, they move with an unimpeded freedom. Their charm is enhanced with ruffled tops and delicate pleated blouses with balloon sleeves embellished with little bows or raffia and organza petals.
In their transparency, the fabrics reveal the breathtaking work of the ateliers required for the construction of the dresses and their handkerchief hems. Tiers of printed chiffon, organza, feathers and raffia fringes structure the delicate tops and long skirts. Embroidered around the collar with sequins in matte red like a lipstick, dresses in anthracite chiffon are printed with Parisian facades. Their flat pleats seem ready to float away with beautiful amplitude. A series of skirts, jackets and a long dress pass by in silk twill printed in the tonalities of dusk, with braids and trimmings in two-tone grosgrain.
Stripes, checks, vibrant block colours – red, orange, pink, blue – illuminate the collection and the emblematic black and white of the House. The prints are in unison: on one ultra-graphic version, the letters of CHANEL haphazardly stand out from the roofs.
In a large version, the CHANEL 19 bag comes swathed in printed silk twill, while the 11.12 bag is back in tweed to match its suit. Zip-up bags in leather or tweed are reminiscent of schoolgirls’ pencil cases: the CHANEL signature appears handwritten in chain interlaced with
leather. The flap bag is refreshed with a wrist bracelet or a braid in two-tone grosgrain ribbon. Others have a more precious note: beads set with chains or sequinned embroideries with floral motifs. Gently, a ruffle is laid here on a strap or there on the flap of a half-moon clutch. Ever present, couture jewellery is worn in accumulation: pearl sautoirs and brooches, necklaces in coloured crystal or punctuated with strass-covered balls and cuff bracelets signed CHANEL PARIS.
Feminine, urban, in motion, never the same and yet always identifiable, the silhouette of CHANEL’s Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection has the nonchalant grace of a cinematographic heroine. Inspiring, contemporary, eternal.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show created by Virginie Viard was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, Soo Joo Park, Nana Komatsu and Jennie Kim, as well as singers Sting, Cardi B, Angèle, Ace Tee and Yuna, the musician Orelsan, the actresses Isabelle Adjani and Xin Zhi Lei and finally the choreographer and dancer Blanca Li.
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