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Collezioni Donna

Chanel Fall-Winter 2019/20 Haute Couture Collection

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The backdrop to every metamorphosis, this season the Grand Palais transforms into a grand circular library complete with walkways. Arranged like a peaceful living room with its banquettes, wing chairs and coffee tables, its rugs and ornaments, it radiates serenity and is an invitation to experience the calm procured by reading.

An eternal book lover, Virginie Viard brings it to life with her vision of the CHANEL woman. Slender, she wears slippers and pumps with a satin bow or black patent leather loafers that reinvent the two-tone geometry of the House. Little glasses give her the look of a young woman eager for culture, poetry, novels.

“I dreamt about a woman withnonchalant elegance and a fluid and free silhouette; everything I like about the CHANEL allure,” confided Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of CHANEL Fashion collections. Contoured with a sophisticated 1930s line, her modernity shows in her coolness, hands thrust deep into pockets. A chic nonchalance enveloped in fluid volumes, loose and lithe, is highlighted with a belt or a bow, with curves and clean graphic panels. Black, white, navy blue, honey, plum and burgundy are traversed with flashes of pink, fuchsia, blue, green and orange, with streaks of silver and gold.
The savoir-faire of the Haute Couture ateliers is honoured throughout: purity sets off the bias and border cuts along the straight grain of duchess satins and double-sided fabrics. The tweeds and the wool crêpe find an exacting fluidity. The drop of velvets responds to the delicacy of georgette pleats, layers of chiffon and organza. The textured lace, multicoloured embroideries and feathers worked one by one reinvent flowers, whorls and palettes in a thousand shades.

As soft as robes, the tweed coats, straight or wraparound, skim the floor, playing with masculine influences. Over a strapless dress or a tweed skirt, the jacket becomes a bolero or bomber jacket with rounded shoulders and sleeves. Worn with wide-cut fluid trousers, drop- fronted or high-waisted, it comes cropped, with pointed shoulders, an officer collar or a small quilted collar. Virginie Viard also transforms it into a little button-up vest with straps. Each time the buttons take on the colours of vellum and printer’s papers, while linings are as white as flyleaves. Some are adorned with layered collars resembling the spine of a book left partially open. Tweed motifs and pleats are aligned like so many volumes on shelves. The CHANEL jacket and allure are like an open book…
The very feminine line alternates between a little belted dress in pleated two-tone tweed with a small collar and layered feuilleté cuffs, a pair of satin trousers worn with a dropped shoulder sweater, and another pair in wool sported with an organza blouse with a tie or a short-sleeved sweater in embroidered wool. A sense of comfort emanates from the silhouettes, inciting us to take time to read in this beautiful library.

Tweed, velvet and wool crêpe swathe sinuous dresses and skirts, while lace and chiffon give them volume and lightness.
Always belted, the long dresses outline an almost languorous attitude. In satin, backless or held with a bow, in velvet and embellished with a bow on the shoulder or with embroidered layered fabrics – emulating pages out of a book, drawn out with a godet or split with pockets. Opposites attract: the long sleeves of a wool dress with a soft and flared bust, fastened with a layered feuilleté collar respond to the bare shoulders of a georgette sheath dress tiered with flat and sunray pleats. On others a row of feathers escape from the hem, pleated flounces encircle the body, a bow is draped on the bust, flowers adorn a bustier or highlight a nude back. An orangey chiffon negligee, a pair of wide-cut feather-hemmed trousers with a top in draped radzimir and a dress with Karl Lagerfeld’s writing slipped into its sequined embroideries are like a breath of fresh air…

In this intimate atmosphere, the boundaries between what is worn indoors and outdoors are blurred by the dresses and sheath dresses in lace warmed by little bomber jackets embroidered with flowers made of feathers, and dresses veiled with capes or coats in silk tulle. And with a carefree charm, the bride is dressed in pyjamas and a robe in a pale pink satin pleated and embellished with escaping feathers.
Luxurious, calm and voluptuous: renewed, the trilogy makes perfect sense in this fantasy library. With a wealth of detail, the sophisticated and feminine line introduce another take on the CHANEL allure. Under the plume of Virginie Viard, they write a new fashion story.

The CHANEL Fall-Winter 2019/20 Haute Couture show was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Margot Robbie, Marine Vacht, Caroline de Maigret, Phoebe Tonkin, Ayami Nakajo, Ellie Bamber and Zhou Xun as well as the actresses Valerie Pachner, Marion Cotillard, Emily Beecham and Amandla Stenberg and the director Lukas Dhont.

#CHANELHauteCouture

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Collezioni Donna

Rêveries Enivrées – LYSANDRE G. L SS 2020

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For Spring/Summer collection 2020, LYSANDRE G. L plunges us into a multifaceted dreamworld. It is a voyage that spans three different universes, each one telling their own tale.

The collection opens with lunar silhouettes, highlights of cold colour with metallic finishes to announce the reverie. Brighter and warmer hues then follow, marking the duality between day and night. Garments worked with transparent materials and superposed fabrics evoke an ethereal lightness of dreams themselves.

Beading and sequins –LYSANDRE G. L’s signature identity – are used to enhance the noble materials and floaty dresses.

LYSANDRE G. L will presente a collection of embroidery bags – Fantasy Clutch 106 – illustrated by the designer and mixing the European and Chinese cultures, both so dear to her heart.

For this collection, LYSANDRE G. L collaborated with painter Danhôo to create five models of exclusive handbags – Matchbox.

Chow Tai Fook’s jewellery collection with a feather theme marries itself perfectly with the aerial universe of the collection.

LYSANDRE G. L is a Parisian brand created in 2016 by M. G. Lenoir, of Studio Berçot, had for many years collaborated with Olympia Le Tan before creating her own line.

LYSANDRE G. L mixes modernity with tradition, the designer’s technical knowledge is always valorised by the creative cuts and symbolic use of colour in each collection. LYSANDRE G. L plays the role of storyteller throughout each of their collections, whether it is clothing or bags, each piece is a fragment of this created universe, a part of the ever noteworthy “prêt-à-couture” vehicle that carries the collections.

Instagram : @lysandre.g.l
Website : www.lysandregl.com

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Collezioni Donna

Chanel SS 2020 Ready-To-Wear Collection

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A youthful breeze of liberty blows across the rooftops of Paris. Or more precisely those installed in the nave of the Grand Palais for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show. Roofs so typical of the fashion capital and the rue Cambon with their zinc surfaces, walkways, chimney pots and windows opening onto the sky.

The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague. I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs. I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” says Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of the Fashion collections.

Today, the ethereal allure is dancing. Accessorised with sandals that come with jewelled or strass-embellished straps or are flat and two-tone, and occasionally little hats, the silhouette is fluid and light. The materials are supple and hinder no movements. For both day and night, the collection plays with the simplicity and balance of volume. Jackets with flounced collars and cuffs and short skirts reinterpret the tweed suit. Capri pants and denim jackets with ruffles also join the dance. Very pure little white coats finished with braid, are worn with voluminous skirts and tops in black and white tweed. The straight-cut masculine tweed jacket is revisited, transformed into playsuits, jumpsuits or a little dress with a flared skirt. Long coats come in tweed or wool crêpe while a striped top and a carelessly knotted shirt add masculine-feminine accents.

Satin, silk faille and taffetas carry the short, wraparound or asymmetric skirts, always worn high on the waist: petticoated, or not, with organza, they move with an unimpeded freedom. Their charm is enhanced with ruffled tops and delicate pleated blouses with balloon sleeves embellished with little bows or raffia and organza petals.
In their transparency, the fabrics reveal the breathtaking work of the ateliers required for the construction of the dresses and their handkerchief hems. Tiers of printed chiffon, organza, feathers and raffia fringes structure the delicate tops and long skirts. Embroidered around the collar with sequins in matte red like a lipstick, dresses in anthracite chiffon are printed with Parisian facades. Their flat pleats seem ready to float away with beautiful amplitude. A series of skirts, jackets and a long dress pass by in silk twill printed in the tonalities of dusk, with braids and trimmings in two-tone grosgrain.

Stripes, checks, vibrant block colours – red, orange, pink, blue – illuminate the collection and the emblematic black and white of the House. The prints are in unison: on one ultra-graphic version, the letters of CHANEL haphazardly stand out from the roofs.

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In a large version, the CHANEL 19 bag comes swathed in printed silk twill, while the 11.12 bag is back in tweed to match its suit. Zip-up bags in leather or tweed are reminiscent of schoolgirls’ pencil cases: the CHANEL signature appears handwritten in chain interlaced with

leather. The flap bag is refreshed with a wrist bracelet or a braid in two-tone grosgrain ribbon. Others have a more precious note: beads set with chains or sequinned embroideries with floral motifs. Gently, a ruffle is laid here on a strap or there on the flap of a half-moon clutch. Ever present, couture jewellery is worn in accumulation: pearl sautoirs and brooches, necklaces in coloured crystal or punctuated with strass-covered balls and cuff bracelets signed CHANEL PARIS.

Feminine, urban, in motion, never the same and yet always identifiable, the silhouette of CHANEL’s Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection has the nonchalant grace of a cinematographic heroine. Inspiring, contemporary, eternal.
The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show created by Virginie Viard was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, Soo Joo Park, Nana Komatsu and Jennie Kim, as well as singers Sting, Cardi B, Angèle, Ace Tee and Yuna, the musician Orelsan, the actresses Isabelle Adjani and Xin Zhi Lei and finally the choreographer and dancer Blanca Li.

#CHANELSpringSummer

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Collezioni Donna

Simone Tessadori – Onirico Collezione Autunno-Inverno 2019

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Le proposte della prossima stagione invernale mostrano un momento di evoluzione del designer Simone Tessadori che, ispirato dal suo personale vissuto , decide di raccontare se stesso e la sua visione della Donna odierna attraverso colori, forme e superfici disegnando un guardaroba raffinato ed elegante che strizza l’occhio ad una smaliziata femminilità.

La collezione Onirico per l’autunno inverno 2019-2020 racconta un fascino edonistico e si apre fondendo la sensualità al romanticismo, attraverso la continua e meticolosa ricerca di materiali di altissimo livello uniti alle silhouette care al brand:
il puro cashmere Loro Piana, la seta in tutte le sue forme, dal cady al crèpe de chine, la lana australiana declinata nel faille e nel bouclé, il cotone e la viscosa, il tutto spolverato con qualche paillettes e del lurex, che da sempre sottolineano l’aspetto giocoso e glamour delle collezioni Simone Tessadori.

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