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Chanel Fall-Winter 2019/20 Haute Couture Collection

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The backdrop to every metamorphosis, this season the Grand Palais transforms into a grand circular library complete with walkways. Arranged like a peaceful living room with its banquettes, wing chairs and coffee tables, its rugs and ornaments, it radiates serenity and is an invitation to experience the calm procured by reading.

An eternal book lover, Virginie Viard brings it to life with her vision of the CHANEL woman. Slender, she wears slippers and pumps with a satin bow or black patent leather loafers that reinvent the two-tone geometry of the House. Little glasses give her the look of a young woman eager for culture, poetry, novels.

“I dreamt about a woman withnonchalant elegance and a fluid and free silhouette; everything I like about the CHANEL allure,” confided Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of CHANEL Fashion collections. Contoured with a sophisticated 1930s line, her modernity shows in her coolness, hands thrust deep into pockets. A chic nonchalance enveloped in fluid volumes, loose and lithe, is highlighted with a belt or a bow, with curves and clean graphic panels. Black, white, navy blue, honey, plum and burgundy are traversed with flashes of pink, fuchsia, blue, green and orange, with streaks of silver and gold.
The savoir-faire of the Haute Couture ateliers is honoured throughout: purity sets off the bias and border cuts along the straight grain of duchess satins and double-sided fabrics. The tweeds and the wool crêpe find an exacting fluidity. The drop of velvets responds to the delicacy of georgette pleats, layers of chiffon and organza. The textured lace, multicoloured embroideries and feathers worked one by one reinvent flowers, whorls and palettes in a thousand shades.

As soft as robes, the tweed coats, straight or wraparound, skim the floor, playing with masculine influences. Over a strapless dress or a tweed skirt, the jacket becomes a bolero or bomber jacket with rounded shoulders and sleeves. Worn with wide-cut fluid trousers, drop- fronted or high-waisted, it comes cropped, with pointed shoulders, an officer collar or a small quilted collar. Virginie Viard also transforms it into a little button-up vest with straps. Each time the buttons take on the colours of vellum and printer’s papers, while linings are as white as flyleaves. Some are adorned with layered collars resembling the spine of a book left partially open. Tweed motifs and pleats are aligned like so many volumes on shelves. The CHANEL jacket and allure are like an open book…
The very feminine line alternates between a little belted dress in pleated two-tone tweed with a small collar and layered feuilleté cuffs, a pair of satin trousers worn with a dropped shoulder sweater, and another pair in wool sported with an organza blouse with a tie or a short-sleeved sweater in embroidered wool. A sense of comfort emanates from the silhouettes, inciting us to take time to read in this beautiful library.

Tweed, velvet and wool crêpe swathe sinuous dresses and skirts, while lace and chiffon give them volume and lightness.
Always belted, the long dresses outline an almost languorous attitude. In satin, backless or held with a bow, in velvet and embellished with a bow on the shoulder or with embroidered layered fabrics – emulating pages out of a book, drawn out with a godet or split with pockets. Opposites attract: the long sleeves of a wool dress with a soft and flared bust, fastened with a layered feuilleté collar respond to the bare shoulders of a georgette sheath dress tiered with flat and sunray pleats. On others a row of feathers escape from the hem, pleated flounces encircle the body, a bow is draped on the bust, flowers adorn a bustier or highlight a nude back. An orangey chiffon negligee, a pair of wide-cut feather-hemmed trousers with a top in draped radzimir and a dress with Karl Lagerfeld’s writing slipped into its sequined embroideries are like a breath of fresh air…

In this intimate atmosphere, the boundaries between what is worn indoors and outdoors are blurred by the dresses and sheath dresses in lace warmed by little bomber jackets embroidered with flowers made of feathers, and dresses veiled with capes or coats in silk tulle. And with a carefree charm, the bride is dressed in pyjamas and a robe in a pale pink satin pleated and embellished with escaping feathers.
Luxurious, calm and voluptuous: renewed, the trilogy makes perfect sense in this fantasy library. With a wealth of detail, the sophisticated and feminine line introduce another take on the CHANEL allure. Under the plume of Virginie Viard, they write a new fashion story.

The CHANEL Fall-Winter 2019/20 Haute Couture show was applauded by the CHANEL ambassadors Margot Robbie, Marine Vacht, Caroline de Maigret, Phoebe Tonkin, Ayami Nakajo, Ellie Bamber and Zhou Xun as well as the actresses Valerie Pachner, Marion Cotillard, Emily Beecham and Amandla Stenberg and the director Lukas Dhont.

#CHANELHauteCouture

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Collezioni Donna

INTERIOR – FW24 Just Like We Never Said Goodbye

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For Fall/Winter 2024, Interior has set their woman amidst the heyday of New York City nightlife during the 1970’s, 80’s, and 90’s – – a time when places like Studio 54, Danceteria, Tunnel, AREA, Palladium, and Limelight served as democratic environments in which people’s visual personas were fostered and celebrated for authenticity rather than an ability to assimilate.

By juxtaposing various club-going archetypes of the era (the painter, the model, the corporate yuppie, the writer, the socialite heiress, the off-duty ballerina, the musician, the fading actress, the 80’s call girl, the grunge club kid) – – all of whom marched to the beat of their own aesthetic drum – – the collection offers a counter to the monolithic style standards of today’s algorithm-driven world in which sameness seems to be the ultimate goal.

As always, Interior has taken the clothes of this season’s ensemble cast and filtered them through a distorted, off-killer lens: the lines of a pinstripe suiting fabric are dashed and broken, an ethereal chiffon gown unravels into tatters as the hem, a cut of mangy shearling adorns the collar of an otherwise traditionally tailored overcoat.

Today’s presentation features a soundtrack that has been intentionally muffled to mimic the sound of house music reverberating through a wall, and the entire space has been wrapped in an optic white polyester tarp. The intention is to create a “non-space” space that evokes the same feeling of a late twentieth century nightclub in NYC, all of which ultimately served as containers for the expression of the people within them.

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Collezioni Donna

taottao / FW24 Collection

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taottao’s inaugural RTW collection, inspired by vintage cartoons and featuring distressed denim and lively plaids, marks a milestone in the brand’s journey, inviting fashion enthusiasts to join the rebellion against conformity.

Fueled by an unwavering passion for fashion design, designer Yitao Li embarked on a journey that defied familial expectations, steering away from the prescribed career paths of finance or economics. Internships with designers such as MONSE, Thom Browne, Tibi, and Kim Shui underscored Yitao’s expertise in design, textile development, and the creation of innovative tools.

Creative direction: @taottao__

Model: Julia Zbierska

Styling: @taottao__

Creative consultant: @jnoereyes

Photographer: 911BOIII

Makeup & Hair: Lorraine

Creative direction: @taottao__

Model: Julia Zbierska

Styling: @taottao__

Creative consultant: @jnoereyes

Photographer: 911BOIII

Makeup & Hair: Lorraine

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Collezioni Donna

Max Mara Tailleur Sartoriale Primavera Estate 2024

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PRIMAVERA ESTATE 2024
Max Mara presenta la collezione Primavera Estate 2024 del progetto Tailleur Sartoriale.
Al centro del progetto la giacca intelata: assoluta, essenziale e autenticamente classica.

Protagonista di ogni look, la giacca è versatile e capace di adattarsi al total look, ma anche al look spezzato. Diventa un perfetto compagno di viaggio, trasversale a diversi momenti della giornata e a differenti situazioni, solamente cambiando gli accessori con i quali poterla indossare.

La qualità della giacca intelata Max Mara è legata alla cultura della confezione maschile che necessita di 345 minuti di lavoro, il doppio di tempo rispetto a una giacca standard. L’uso del canvas interno, la ribattitura dei 130 punti a mano sul giro manica e il paziente lavoro di stiratura fanno sì che la giacca si modelli con naturalezza sul corpo femminile valorizzando qualsiasi look.

Per la Primavera Estate sono presenti sette nuovi modelli, doppiopetto o semplice petto; la giacca semplice
petto su silhouette femminile e la giacca super soft: intelata ma destrutturata è così leggera da sembrare una camicia. Da abbinare a pantaloni piccoli oppure ampi e con le pinces.
Questa stagione la ricerca di tessuti si è concentrata su lana e mohair unito e cangiante, lana e seta unita ed effetto melange, pura lana melange e lana gessata.
Tessuti pregiati e cura nei dettagli, come quello della fodera color champagne che rende la giacca
estremamente femminile.

La proposta dei colori spazia dagli assoluti bianco e nero ai nuovi colori di stagione ispirati alle sfumature dei fiori selvatici appartenenti alla tradizione scandinava come il menta, il nigella, l’alchemilla, il fiordaliso, il primula e le varie tonalità della rosa per giungere ai colori neutri legati alla tradizione della sartoria maschile, quali il cacha, il cuoio, il sabbia, i grigi – chiari e scuri – e i blu.

In occasione del Chinese New Year 2024 la collezione presenza una giacca color rosso caratterizzata da una speciale fodera dedicata all’anno del Drago.

La giacca è senza tempo.
La giacca è contenuta, mai esasperata.
La giacca è moderna e trasversale nella sua grande classicità.

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