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Collezioni Donna

Chanel 2020/21 Métiers d’art Collection “Le Château des Dames”

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Showing at the Château de Chenonceau, at the “Château des Dames”, was an obvious choice. It was designed and lived in by women, including Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici. It is a castle on a human scale. And Catherine de’ Medici’s emblem was a monogram composed of two intertwined Cs, just like that of Chanel,” confides Virginie Viard.

We don’t know if Coco was directly inspired by her, but it is highly likely because she so admired Renaissance women. Her taste for lace ruffs and the aesthetic of certain pieces of her jewellery come from there. Deep down, this place is a part of Chanel’s history.” In 1936, Gabrielle Chanel wrote an article on the women of that era: “I have always been struck by a strange feeling of sympathy and admiration towards the women who lived from François Ier to Louis XIII, perhaps because I find them all to be great, with a magnificent simplicity and a majesty imbued with onerous duties.”

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Photographed_by_Juergen_Teller

In the grand gallery where the runway show takes place, the black and white chequered motif on the floor is reminiscent of a life-size game of checkers, and appears on sequinned mini-skirts, as well as a long skirt in a fringed geometric tweed patchwork worn with a black and white jacquard sweater. A long coat in black velvet – “which has a “The Bride Wore Black” aspect, because after the death of King of France Henri II, Catherine de’ Medici only wore black” – opens to reveal a suit-body in pale tweed. The warm hues of a tweed cape echo the famous tapestries of the castle, while the flowers from the two gardens, one created by Diane de Poitiers and the other by Catherine de’ Medici, located on either side of the castle, inspired the floral embroideries on the wide lapel of a jacket.

For this 2020/21 Métiers d’art collection, CHANEL’s artisan accomplices live up to expectations more than ever: a long black lace dress composed of lattices punctuated with studs, made by Lemarié; the top of a damask dress embroidered entirely by Lesage; the two-tone sparkling silver platform sandals and the tapered black boots with fold-over cuffs and high heels made by Massaro. “And a big black hat by Maison Michel, for a look that is very Milady! I also asked the Atelier Montex to make embroideries from the castle in the style of a child’s toy in strass. Because I like everything to be mixed up, all the different eras, between the Renaissance and romanticism, between rock and something very girly, it is all very Chanel.

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Collezioni Donna

Missoni Donna Main Primavera 23

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Nuovo Missonismo.
Dallo sguardo sui codici nasce una lingua personale, parlata nell’idioma di un nuovo autore.

Un A B C che attraversa l’archivio per concretizzarsi nel presente, scegliendo solo le lettere che significano, per risignificarle. A come Ageless. Una visione trasversale, perché l’età è solo condizione della mente, e il vestire accompagna questo fluido sentire.

C come Colore. Alfabeto della luce: giallo, magenta e ciano, i primari che si mescolano. Bianco che illumina e che somma tutti i colori. Bianco e nero grafico che ritma.

D come Disciplina. Un nuovo ordine mentale delimita la deregulation dei pattern entro il perimetro di una silhouette body conscious, precisa, fisica: al ginocchio, verticalizzata da alti spacchi, svelta, fresca.

G come Guardaroba. Un sistema essenziale ed estensibile di capi: cardigan, camicia, top, gonna a tubo, pantaloni, slipdress.
L come Luccichio. La luce che brilla, metallica, mescolandosi al colore. Cristalli che disegnano e rifrangono.

M come Monocromo. Colore massimizzato in nota singola, il pattern che diventa texture e muove la superficie.

O come Origine. Sumirago è la scena, laddove tutto è iniziato.

P come Pattern. I motivi fondanti del Missonismo: fiammato, zig zig, righe, patchwork, rachel, si dilatano, si combinano, mutano. I tagli e le costruzioni creano lo zig zag. Il patchwork è uno jacquard. Cristalli applicati creano linee di luce a zigo zago. Le righe si moltiplicano, brillano, sfiammano. Bordi a contrasto contengono e definiscono.

Q come Quotidiano. Un guardaroba pensato per essere vissuto giorno dopo giorno, senza sforzo.

S come Sensualità. Il corpo che si sente, occhieggia, traspare, appare, guizza, gioca.

T come Timeless. Pezzi pensati come oggetti del tempo, ma fuori dal tempo.

V come Veloce. La sveltezza e disinvoltura che nascono dalla spontaneità.

Parlare Missoni, oggi.

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Collezioni Donna

Alexander McQueen autumn/winter 2022 pre-collection

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Inspiration Closer to the earth. Grounded. A focus on silhouette.

look 01
An off-the shoulder corset dress with an exploded neckline and sleeves and bone detailing in pop yellow poly faille.
look 02
An asymmetric double-breasted tailored dress with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing in black grain de poudre.
look 03
An off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirt dress with bone detailing in white heavy cotton poplin.
look 04
An oversized cocoon shirt with bone stitch detailing in white heavy cotton poplin and high-waisted trousers with a half-skirt drape in black grain de poudre.
look 05
A dress with an asymmetric drape skirt in black leather with black scalloped lingerie lace detailing.
look 06
An oversized single-breasted tailored jacket with an asymmetric drape in black grain de poudre with contrast exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print poly faille sleeves, a vest in black rib jersey and high-waisted trousers in black grain de poudre.
look 07
A strapless corset dress in crushed silver poly faille.
look 08
An inside-out corset dress with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing and an asymmetric drape skirt in Welsh red poly faille.
look 09
A shirt with an open cape back and biker trousers in black leather.
look 10
A corset dress with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing and an asymmetric drape skirt in black satin.
look 11
An oversized double-breasted tailored coat with asymmetric drape and tab detailing in black and white houndstooth check wool.
look 12
A cropped tailored jacket with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing in black grain de poudre and a corset dress with oversized silver metal hook-and-eye detailing and an asymmetric drape skirt in black satin.
look 13
A T-shirt in white heavy cotton jersey and a strapless dress with bow drape detailing and a full gathered skirt in exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print poly faille.
look 14
A trench coat in beige cotton twill with contrast exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print poly faille sleeves and a full gathered skirt in exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print poly faille.
look 15
A cropped biker jacket with zipped cape sleeves in black leather, an exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print T-shirt in cotton jersey and a kickback pencil skirt in black leather.
look 16
A parka and full gathered skirt in exploded black and white McQueen graffiti print poly faille.
look 17
A pieced and patched dress with bone-stitch detailing in black denim.
look 18
An oversized double-breasted tailored jacket with an asymmetric drape and tab detailing and wide-legged trousers in electric blue wool.
look 19
An oversized double-breasted tailored jacket with an asymmetric drape and tab detailing and wide-legged trousers in blue and black exploded McQueen graffiti print grain de poudre.
look 20
A jumper in white, black and blue lambswool and a full skirt in burnished blue leather.
look 21
A shirt with an open cape back and biker trousers in polished electric blue leather.
look 22
A slip dress with an asymmetric drape skirt in burnished Welsh red leather with black scalloped lingerie lace detailing.
look 23
A biker jacket with zipped cape sleeves and a kickback pencil skirt in burnished Welsh red leather.
look 24
An inside-out corset dress with jet graffiti embroidery in black poly faille.
look 25
An off-the-shoulder pencil dress with an exploded neckline and sleeves and front split skirt detailing in deep orange poly faille.
look 26
An oversized double-breasted tailored jacket with an asymmetric drape and tab detailing in ivory wool and wide-legged trousers in ivory wool.
alexandermcqueen.com
look 27
A corset dress with oversized silver metal hook-and eye detailing and an asymmetric drape skirt in tea rose satin.
look 28
An off-the-shoulder corset dress with bow drape detailing and drape sleeves in crushed apricot poly faille.
look 29
An oversized double-breasted tailored jacket and wide-legged trousers in tea rose grain de poudre.
look 30
A slip dress with bell flower white work and silver bullion embroidery on a skeletal tulle base.
look 31
A dress with a deep V-neckline, godet panels and silver bullion, metal thread, bead, sequin and crystal graffiti embroidery on a black Chantilly lace base.
look 32
A cropped tuxedo jacket in black wool with tonal satin lapels and a slip dress with an asymmetric drape in black wool with scalloped lingerie lace detailing.
look 33
An inside-out corset with jet graffiti embroidery in black poly faille and high-waisted tuxedo trousers in black grain du poudre with a tonal satin side stripe.
look 34
A corset dress with jet embroidered straps and bone detailing, a cage at the hip and blue, black and silver bead and sequin bluebell embroideries on a black skeletal tulle base.

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SHOES
Punk boots in black leather and burnished red and anthracite with a silver metal toe-cap. Chain sandals in black and ivory leather with a chain embellished toe-strap and a pin heel. Ankle-strap low-cut Punk pumps in black, Welsh red, blue and ivory leather with a silver metal toe-cap. Buckle Punk mules in black, electric blue, ivory and pop yellow leather. Low-cut Punk pumps in black and apricot leather. Double-buckle Punk sandals in black, ivory, apricot, electric blue and pop yellow leather. Strappy Arc sandals in black leather.

JEWELLERY
Asymmetric ear sets, sculptural ear cuffs, finely engraved coin medallions and hand-forged whistle charms in antique silver and gold metal. Oversized coin medallions, mirror lockets and single case holder pendants, stacked bracelets and graphic heart-shaped rings in antique silver and gold metal. Clean double rings with fine rope detailing in high shine silver and gold metal. Chain and crystal necklaces and ear sets, stacked bracelets and multi-rings set with jet crystal in dark ruthenium and antique silver metal.

BAGS
The Four-Ring bag in black and Welsh red leather with a detachable silver metal chain strap. The Curve bag in black and tea rose and apricot leather. The Curve Pouch in apricot and black leather with a wristlet strap. The Bow bag in pop yellow, electric blue and black leather. The Four-Ring Clutch in silver and in black with crystal graffiti embroidery.

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Collezioni Donna

Dsquared2 Goth Surfer Women’s Pre-Spring Summer 2023

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A gothic beach babe, who surfs the adrenalin-pumping break by day and slips into the night’s shadows for adventures after dark, is the muse for Dsquared2’s women’s Pre-Spring Summer 2023 collection. She shares style with the guys she battles the waves for out in the line-up: oversized volumes and femme layers of transparent lace are layered with black denim, 50s cocktail gowns, and acid bleached sweatshirts.

This surfer girl has an edge: baggy shorts, nylon pants, black jeans—and a T-shirt emblazoned with a 24/7 Dsquared2 minimart are worn with long sheer black lace dresses, pointed toe pumps and high-tops with cartoon-like volumes, their puffy construction modelled on a snowboard boot. Sloping 80s shoulders shape the jackets, tailored or a cap-sleeve Varsity style with a ribbed stand-up collar.

Black denim features rows of ruffles. French blue denim has a strong wash, in a long vest or oversized jacket shapes worn with super soft crushed cashmere joggers and a mini skirt with a dark black-and-red Hawaiian print. A two-piece blue jacket and jeans reveals pinstripes of micro tonal crystals. Other two-piece sets have a streetwear influence, in a crisp garment dyed cotton tracksuit in faded blue; or retro tailoring—an orange and fuchsia eyelash bouclé mini skirt and jacket.

Sunny surfing vibes have a psychedelic twist: wide loose pants in a camouflage print—same as the guys—sweatshirts with acid pink patterns or feature a built-in baseball cap on the hood. A long rainbow striped knit dress is layered over slouchy tailored pants and a waiter’s shawl-collared blazer, the lining revealing one of the collection’s prints.

Cocktail dresses come spangled and showstopping: in ruched soft black velvet dotted with crystals, in 50s dramatic floor lengths in techno taffeta, in white gathered chiffon layered over a printed mesh top, and a mini orange silk slip with a swathe of acid pink trim. The collection’s standout shoe is named the ‘surf heel’ for its kinked wave-like shape, fitted to a sling-back, ankle strap sandal and pump designs, with fumé transparent tops embellished with glitter velvet stripe detail, while another style is crafted with fishnet and an oversized leather flower decoration. Other vintage look heels have crystal covered D2 hardware on the toe, and this season the D2 Statement bag is transformed into mini tote and handheld shapes. Necklaces are hybrids of shells and crosses and chokers, worn with shark tooth earrings. And for when there’s no waves, there’s a pair of flat D2 quilted satin slides.

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