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Allina Liu / FW24 Collection

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FW24: The Daughters of NYX

“Life is a twisted finite thread. The thread is a segment, a line connecting two points. Clotho spins the thread of life into the spindle.

Lachesis measures the thread of life allotted to each person. Life is temporal, we are portions of time. Atropos cuts the thread and Death arrives. Birth and death, cradle and grave…and the rest is silence…” – Aquileana, Allea Jacta est (The Die Has Been Cast) Part I

In Greek mythology, Nyx is the goddess and personification of the night. Among the most noteworthy of her many children were three sisters who became known as The Moirai (The Fates).

As their name suggests, The Moirai determined the fate of every being, human and divine. In many accounts, The Moirai were said to be more powerful than any gods and determined deities lifespans as well.

Before any being is born, Clotho (The Spinner) spins their thread of life, Lachesis (The Allotter) measures the thread, and Atropos (The Inevitable) cuts the thread. All lives are predetermined by the 3 sisters and cannot be altered. There are only a handful of stories that depict The Fates interacting with others and extending their lifespans.

For Fall 24, the focal point of Liu’s collection is a print created in collaboration with LA-based artist, Leanne
Kissinger. Kissinger hand paints every component with gouache and then translates them into a repeat pattern. With both individuals coming from a fine art background, Liu and Kissinger’s work compliment each other by creating unique yet wearable prints that are rooted in deeper meaning.

In Liu’s fall print, a red Shibari (the Japanese art of intricate knot tying) rope weaves through organically placed orchids and broken shards of Chinese Ming porcelain. The rope symbolizes both The Fates’ thread of life as well as Liu’s endeavor to explore sexuality as an Asian Americanraised in a traditional Chinese household. The broken ceramics mirror the designer’s experience of attempting to assimilate while simultaneously trying to hold onto her heritage. The rope snakes through the shards, representing her journey of self discovery.

In order to navigate two different cultures, Liu turned to other Asian artists who have delved into the taboo space of sexuality. Late Chinese photographer Ren Hang and controversial Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, became prime sources of inspiration for Liu as she matured.
Both Hang and Araki were Asian artists who challenged the norm of their suppressed cultures and created works that either disgusted or intrigued the viewers.

Araki’s works in particular resonated. His photographs largely focus on women tied or suspended with red Shibari rope. Leaning into the idea of power in sexuality, Liu began to incorporate knots and suspension into her work.
In addition to the signature ties in the garments, Araki’s influence is also seen in the presentation itself. Red ropes are woven into the models hair and attached to each other, creating an ongoing tether. The rope references the thread of life that connects us all and serves as a subtle nod to Jordan Peele’s 2019 movie titled Us, as an ode to Liu’s love of horror. Lastly in the corner, the three sisters (who are not attached to any earthly tethers), await you.

 CREDITS:
Credits – Shoe Sponsor
: Doctor Martens, Hair Sponsor: Shokunin Education LLC, Hair Product Sponsor: Alfaparf Milano Professional, Beauty: Anthony Tulve Team, Florals: Love Me Not Floral, Lookbook Photographer: Anna Letson, Styling: Christina Knebel, Public Relations: Lindsey Media, Event Photographer: Getty Images, Production Team: C. O’Neil Productions, Print Designer: Leanne Kissinger, Lighting: Devlin’s, Design Interns: Jesse McBrearty, Carmel Mu, NYFW Volunteers: Morgan Zuanic, Jordie Hennigar, Victoria Huerta, Constant Moral Support: My amazing husband, Jay

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