ULLA JOHNSON Fall/Winter 2024

A new, unexpected language of juxtaposed sensibilities imbues the Ulla Johnson Autumn/Winter 2024 collection with organic gestures of cocooned silhouettes, richly variegated detailing, and luxurious textures. Prints entwine in surprising combinations, evoking a sense of innovative potential. Presented at Powerhouse Arts, the collection unfolds across a pulsing backdrop of glimmering copper hues, inviting yet transportive, centered by a mesmerizing monolith that showcases a chimerical blend of the season’s prints.

A fusion of classics into newly-imagined frocks, outerwear, and opulent separates defines Autumn/Winter’s offerings. Pinstripes, shirting, and boxy jackets—timeless menswear tropes— are blended with womenswear details and finishings. Corsetry techniques and romantic fit and flare silhouettes further accentuate curves through bustier styles crafted in structural materials. An expansive selection of suiting yields a series of jackets and coats in exciting new textures. Striped wool, patchworked shearling, jacquard outerwear, chenille, lambskin leather, and brushed suri alpaca arrive in oversized shapes, abbreviated by cinched waists and cropped hems. Animalesque motifs adorn slinky tricot and abstracted cintzed silk, while traditional paisley is swirled across crepe de chine, silk jersey, and blown up in a graphic crochet. Architectural seamlines and a flowing silk-chiffon knit combo elongate the body, while dresses in delicate alpaca and Battenberg cotton-silk lace reveal and conceal.

Kaleidoscopic geometries emerge across translucent devoré, exquisite hand-embroidered velvet, and satin back crepe featuring a mélange of zig zag stitching. Delicately blurred botanicals appear in unexpected textures—from anoraks and ponchos of the brand’s K-Way collaboration in floral ripstop to printed wool twill, high shine pleated satin, and romantic cloqué. A feathered miniskirt is echoed by an electric-hued printed poplin. Fair isle jacquard presents a considered fusion of the season’s diverse patterns. Weightless metallics glint with movement through a variety of techniques including pleated lurex silk, crushed taffeta, and effervescent dotted crinkle chiffon. These glowing surfaces illuminate a palette of jewel tones in refracting textures and unexpected monochrome in wool felt inspired by the paintings of American artist Milton Avery. The brand’s growing denim selection features fresh styles embellished with lacing that contracts around the form alongside a workwear-inspired, boyish shirt and slouched jean, while seasonal shades include rich mulberry and soft dove. New fabrications envelop the body in soothingly warm yet detailed textures including ruffled organic wool jersey. From cowl necks and cascading ruffles, these shapes bring an added sense of softness and warmth. The iconic new Twyla Bag in calfskin leather with signature twisted brass hardware complements the collection in a supple yet reimagined hobo style.

Autumn/Winter 2024 presents a vision of expertly distorted expectations, probing the boundaries between the masculine and the feminine to unveil new heights of aesthetic possibilities. Johnson’s modernized perspectives on silhouette, line, and color are at the fore this season, celebrating the transformative power of reinterpreting tradition, and revealing what lies just beneath the surface.

In celebration of the collection, renowned author Raven Leilani contributes an accompanying essay on beauty and adornment.