Haute Couture collection – Daily Mood

Chanel Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Collection

DailyMood.it — Wed, 29 Jan 2025 10:51:48 +0000

Colore: attraverso combinazioni sottili e audaci, lo Studio di Creazione rende omaggio, con questa collezione di Haute Couture, a un elemento centrale dell’opera di Gabrielle Chanel. Con il suo uso rivoluzionario del nero, la couturière ha segnato un cambiamento estetico epocale. Eppure, è stata anche una straordinaria colorista, lavorando con ogni tonalità dello spettro cromatico: dal nero al bianco, dai pastelli più delicati alle tonalità più intense e vibranti.

Al centro della Nave del Grand Palais, la passerella assume la forma di una doppia C che traccia il simbolo dell’infinito. Un richiamo all’eccellenza senza fine dell’Haute Couture, di cui CHANEL è la Maison più antica ancora in attività. Progettata dallo scenografo e designer Willo Perron, la struttura evoca il cerchio cromatico, reinterpretato dallo Studio di Creazione. In collaborazione con Michel Gaubert, il compositore Gustave Rudman ha scritto una colonna sonora originale per lo show.

Bianco, pastelli, toni accesi, blu notte e nero: la progressione della collezione segue un ciclo completo, dal giorno alla notte. Dalle prime luci dell’alba fino al bagliore del firmamento, il racconto cromatico si apre con l’aurora e si chiude nel buio della notte. Tra i capi in passerella troviamo un completo pigiama in crêpe di seta nei toni dell’alba, un tailleur in tweed giallo sole, un abito in tweed lilla a pieghe, un tailleur in tweed bianco e nero dipinto e ricamato. Seguono un cappotto rosa-arancio su un abito in jacquard viola e un tailleur color mimosa con ruches rosa pallido. Anche le scarpe a listini riprendono la stessa logica: piatte o con tacco, spaziano dall’azzurro cielo al viola, fino al bianco e crema.

Tweed, tasche, bordature, fodere che si abbinano alla camicia – talvolta fissata alla gonna per creare una silhouette impeccabile – e bottoni gioiello: tutti gli elementi distintivi dell’allure CHANEL vengono sublimati in questa collezione. Giocando su contrasti cromatici e accostamenti vibranti, le fodere rivelano sfumature di bronzo, rosa, verde, giallo, blu reale o viola, mentre le bordature diventano grafiche, multicolore o ricamate con piccoli fiori. I bottoni in cristallo di rocca, metallo e strass si trasformano in lune, soli e camelie. Stelle lunari e solari appaiono anche sulle cinture in velluto nero, a sottolineare l’importanza del nero per la Maison.

Alternando lunghezze corte e lunghe, gli abiti giocano con la dualità. La delicatezza dei tessuti consente un’armoniosa ricerca delle proporzioni. Leggeri e ricamati, plissettati e arricciati, esprimono l’estrema raffinatezza tecnica dell’Haute Couture. Tra le creazioni spiccano un abito polvere di stelle, un abito rosso in chiffon ricamato, una chemise dress in doppio satin giallo pallido con plastron plissettato, un’ampia mantella celeste vaporosa, un abito bianco ricamato di paillettes abbinato a un cappotto in tweed color champagne. L’intera collezione è intrisa di un’allure fiabesca, dove leggerezza e illusioni trompe-l’œil creano un effetto magico: pizzi dipinti e chiffon ricamati avvolti da aloni di colore riproducono perfettamente il tweed. Un’immaginazione teatrale e onirica che prende vita grazie all’Haute Couture.

Manifesto di bellezza e disciplina di eccellenza, la Haute Couture CHANEL, che quest’anno celebra il suo 110° anniversario, offre allo Studio di Creazione un campo di espressione illimitato. Con estrema precisione e assoluta libertà, la collezione Primavera-Estate 2025 esplora e reinventa i codici della Maison.

E come disse Gabrielle Chanel:
£Il comfort ha le sue forme. L’amore ha i suoi colori.”

Copyright CHANEL

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Chanel – Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture Collection

DailyMood.it — Thu, 25 Jan 2024 14:10:33 +0000

“Chanel brings out emotions in me that I use for inspiration, collection after collection. My mission is to find new ways to tell its most beautiful stories.

Instantly recognisable as a CHANEL code, the button eases the opening and closing of a garment. Thanks to buttons, women could rid themselves of everything that had prevented them from moving freely. Gabrielle Chanel treated buttons with the utmost respect. Like a jewel, it adds a touch of daring and sparkle to the unique allure of which she was both theorist and artisan.

A symbol of emancipation, Virginie Viard takes this jewel-button into the world of ballet and dance.
Here, fashion, music, theatre and painting come together as physical poetry and, touched by grace or wonderment, the performers briefly escape the laws of nature. Beyond the softness of this light and suspended world, the Spring-Summer 2024 Haute Couture collection evokes the great names of dance, from whom it borrows their extraordinary style and affirmation of a triumphant body.

“I often think about dance, it’s an important theme at Chanel. The House is close to its institutions, to its choreographers and dancers, and we create costumes for the ballet. I have tried to bring together the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in a very ethereal collection, composed of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace.”

Thus unfolds a landscape of transparent short straight skirts, long dresses, jumpsuits and little capes embellished with embroideries depicting draperies, little bows, illusion tulle pockets, lace belts, sequins, braids and little flowers. Masculine figures and the beauty of the body give rise to a very feminine collection, worn over white ballet leotards and tights.

In a year marked by the vitality of the links that unite CHANEL and dance, a century after Gabrielle Chanel’s first designs for ballet, the pink and white aquarelle-dominated collection owes its touches of vivid colour to the Ballets Russes of Léon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev. Down jackets in tulle, hoods, the Artistic Director also injects references to contemporary culture, with heels, for added allure.

At the invitation of Virginie Viard, Kendrick Lamar, Dave Free and Mike Carson designed a set that recalls the symbols of Haute Couture, just like the film The Button, serviced by pgLang, written and directed by Dave Free and scored by Kendrick Lamar, with Anna Mouglalis, Naomi Campbell, and Margaret Qualley in the lead role. Swathed in tulle, the actress, House ambassador and accomplished dancer opens the show.

“For me, dance evokes all these stories and emotions that are close to my heart, and that I take such pleasure in handing down and recounting,” concludes the Artistic Director.

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Chanel Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture Collection

DailyMood.it — Wed, 08 Feb 2023 09:45:47 +0000

The starting point of the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection is Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. It is the place where Virginie Viard took Xavier Veilhan at the very beginning of their work, and which includes a collection of objects, sculptures, drawings representing lions, does, stags, birds and camels. “For his third participation, I asked him to reinterpret the apartment’s bestiary and incorporate his own,” she says. “The whole embroidery universe of the collection is turned towards the animal world.”

Embroidered on short tweed suits and coat dresses, kittens, corgis, rabbits and swallows share the limelight with the does, stags or camellias emblematic of the House.
As if on a village square, a festive parade is being prepared and sets off. Eleven monumental animals made of wood, cardboard and paper created by Xavier Veilhan hide models, and then open to let them escape. “I like it when the marvellous bursts forth and the course of events is interrupted,” she continues.

The CHANEL suit borrows its codes from the female uniforms of parades and spectacles. Top hat, bow tie, white gloves, laced boots, satin cape, pleated skirt, jackets double-breasted or with tails, tuxedo shirt, sequins, short shorts, petticoats: it is in the poetry of majorettes that Virginie Viard also finds her inspiration.

Dresses and jumpsuits all in lightness and refinement, superpositions, transparencies, flounces, pleats, fine straps and repainted laces, are crafted in silk tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crepe and chantilly lace.

And as in every beautiful story, the Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection, with its fairy parade, closes with the bride in a dress embroidered with swallows.§

Photo Credits: Copyright CHANEL

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Chanel Fall-Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture Collection

DailyMood.it — Wed, 13 Jul 2022 07:55:29 +0000

“I have imagined the Fall–Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture show in the continuity of the previous show, leaving room for experimentation,” says Virginie Viard. “The group of artists who surround me, made up of Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi and joined by Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner, allows for this. As does the Haute Couture.”

“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance. And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The paletteconsists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver.”

From the anniversary High Jewellery collection ‘1932’, which pays tribute to the first and only ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ collection created in 1932 by Mademoiselle Chanel, Virginie Viard chose to use necklaces as “celestial elements because they fit with pleats.”

On foot, in addition to T–strap pumps, there are cowboy boots that add a twist to long skirts and weave a link with the Étrier de Paris equestrian centre, the venue chosen to host the show. “These boots also echo the previous Haute Couture show that opened with Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback,” adds Virginie Viard.

Round shoulders, square backs, embroideries with geometric shapes and patterns are a nod to the 1930s, while also looking back to the 1970s, they resonate with the constructivism of a very “graphic” décor. A key word to which Karl Lagerfeld was particularly attached.

The setting is inspired by a camouflage of optical illusions, with its play on shapes and stripes. “Xavier Veilhan had fun transforming the set into an immersive installation, as soft as it is shifting, in which the music takes part.”

This freedom is expressed through tweed once again, through large men’s hats and capelines with very wide brims. “I also like to break the graphic approach with a natural look. The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn. I can’t see myself doing it any other way.”

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Chanel Fall-Winter 2020/21 Haute Couture Collection photographed and captured by Mikael Jansson

DailyMood.it — Thu, 09 Jul 2020 09:14:11 +0000

“I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of ‘Le Palace’ at dawn,” reveals Virginie Viard. “With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewellery. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to ‘Le Palace’, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too.”
While the Spring-Summer 2020 Haute Couture collection was clearly influenced by the simplicity and

rigour of the abbey at Aubazine, where Gabrielle Chanel had been placed as a child, the thirty looks of the Fall-Winter 2020/21 Haute Couture collection are marked by a desire for shimmering opulence and jewelry. Some are even accompanied with jewels from the CHANEL High Jewelry collections.
“I like working like this, going in the opposite direction of what I did last time. I wanted complexity, sophistication.”
All of CHANEL’s embroidery partners, including the Métiers d’art Lesage and Montex, as well as Lemarié and Goossens have contributed to the precious tweeds embellished with sequins, strass, stones and beads. A diamond-like braiding adorns the ink black trouser suits. Short dresses with cinched waists and corolla skirts rustle alongside long dresses with a very Grand Siècle allure and the noble authority of heroines escaping from 19^th century tableaux.
“It’s true that I thought about paintings, but it was more German paintings,” says Virginie Viard.
“I really had Karl’s world in mind…”
Black and anthracite grey tonalities are illuminated with flashes of pink. Painted laces enrich bolero jackets along with tweeds made of silver streaked ribbon; a jacket with an entirely smocked waist is worn over tapered boot-trousers in black suede, the ultimate sign of an ultra-rock romanticism. “For me, Haute Couture is romantic by its very essence. There is so much love in each one of these silhouettes.”

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